New Orleans for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Brass, bone, and a river that bends around the dead.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Burgers, jazz and a Frenchmen bar
- Port of Call
A Marigny corner bar famous for its burger with a baked potato; take the stool at the bar and order the Neptune's Monsoon.
- Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro
The city's modern-jazz club, a small room of tables and a stage, with the Ellis Marsalis tradition; reserve a seat by the piano.
- d.b.a.
A Frenchmen bar of dim lamps and a huge beer list, with a brass band or a swing band on the stage; stand at the back.
Saturday: Biscuits, a Tipitina's night and a rotating bar
- Willa Jean
A bakery-restaurant in the CBD, with biscuits, fried chicken and a pastry case; the late breakfast for a late night.
- Tipitina's
The Uptown music hall where Professor Longhair played, with a long bar and a wooden floor; check the schedule and go for the local band.
- Carousel Bar
A revolving bar in the Monteleone, the carousel completing a turn every fifteen minutes; order a Vieux Carré and stay on your stool.
Sunday: Sunday brunch and brass
- The Court of Two Sisters
A jazz brunch in a gaslit courtyard on Royal Street, a buffet of Creole dishes with a trio playing while you eat. Arrive hungry and pace yourself.
- Preservation Hall
Fifty minutes on a wooden bench in an unamplified room, a trumpet and a clarinet and a very old tune; the late set suits the owls.
- Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar
A candlelit 1772 cottage with a piano in the corner and a Voodoo Daiquiri at the bar; the quietest bar on Bourbon Street.
Monday: Beignets and the last coffee
- Café du Monde
Open since 1862 and round the clock: three hot beignets and a café au lait, the right breakfast on the way home.
- Jackson Square
The cathedral, the Cabildo and the Pontalba galleries before the artists arrive; sit on a bench and watch the city wake.
- Verti Marte
A French Quarter deli that has been open all night since 1969; order the All That Jazz po'boy and eat it on the stoop.