New Orleans for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Brass, bone, and a river that bends around the dead.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: The Square and the exile's house
- Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral
The 1721 French grid's central square, the 1850 Pontalba apartment blocks and the cathedral where Spanish governors worshipped; the oldest of New Orleans on one lawn.
- Piazza d'Italia
Charles Moore's 1978 postmodern stage set of neon-lit columns and fountains, built for the city's Italians; a joke, a landmark and a very good photograph.
- Napoleon House
A house built in 1814 for a mayor who planned to rescue Napoleon, with peeling walls, classical music and a Pimm's Cup; plot over a muffuletta.
Saturday: A guided French Quarter and a Creole table
- Friends of the Cabildo walking tour
A two-hour guided walk through the French Quarter by a volunteer guide who knows the building dates; the best way into the old city.
- New Orleans Pharmacy Museum
America's first licensed pharmacist's shop from 1823, with leech jars, gris-gris and cabinets of cures; the guide tells the stories.
- Tujague's
The city's second-oldest restaurant, since 1856: a fixed menu of brisket with horseradish sauce and shrimp rémoulade at a long bar.
Sunday: The river's weathered steel
- Crescent Park and the Piety Street Bridge
David Adjaye's weathering-steel arch over the rail line, with a long riverside lawn beyond; the old wharf sheds now frame the skyline.
- Besthoff Sculpture Garden
The 2019 expansion by Reed Hilderbrand threads Lee Ledbetter's walkways between the oaks and lagoons; free, and open until late afternoon.
- Compère Lapin
Nina Compton's Caribbean-Creole kitchen in a converted coffee warehouse: the conch dumplings and curry goat are the order.
Monday: Curtis and Davis, then the war
- New Orleans Public Library Main Branch
Curtis and Davis's 1958 glass box behind a bronze sunscreen, a modern landmark with a public reading room; free to walk in.
- The National WWII Museum
Pavilions of aircraft and landing craft, the Higgins boats that were made in this city; allow two hours and take the lift.
- Cochon Butcher
Counter seats in a butcher's shop: a muffuletta or the pork belly cubano with a pickle and a beer.