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New Orleans for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Brass, bone, and a river that bends around the dead.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: The Square and the exile's house

  1. Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral

    The 1721 French grid's central square, the 1850 Pontalba apartment blocks and the cathedral where Spanish governors worshipped; the oldest of New Orleans on one lawn.

  2. Piazza d'Italia

    Charles Moore's 1978 postmodern stage set of neon-lit columns and fountains, built for the city's Italians; a joke, a landmark and a very good photograph.

  3. Napoleon House

    A house built in 1814 for a mayor who planned to rescue Napoleon, with peeling walls, classical music and a Pimm's Cup; plot over a muffuletta.

Saturday: A guided French Quarter and a Creole table

  1. Friends of the Cabildo walking tour

    A two-hour guided walk through the French Quarter by a volunteer guide who knows the building dates; the best way into the old city.

  2. New Orleans Pharmacy Museum

    America's first licensed pharmacist's shop from 1823, with leech jars, gris-gris and cabinets of cures; the guide tells the stories.

  3. Tujague's

    The city's second-oldest restaurant, since 1856: a fixed menu of brisket with horseradish sauce and shrimp rémoulade at a long bar.

Sunday: The river's weathered steel

  1. Crescent Park and the Piety Street Bridge

    David Adjaye's weathering-steel arch over the rail line, with a long riverside lawn beyond; the old wharf sheds now frame the skyline.

  2. Besthoff Sculpture Garden

    The 2019 expansion by Reed Hilderbrand threads Lee Ledbetter's walkways between the oaks and lagoons; free, and open until late afternoon.

  3. Compère Lapin

    Nina Compton's Caribbean-Creole kitchen in a converted coffee warehouse: the conch dumplings and curry goat are the order.

Monday: Curtis and Davis, then the war

  1. New Orleans Public Library Main Branch

    Curtis and Davis's 1958 glass box behind a bronze sunscreen, a modern landmark with a public reading room; free to walk in.

  2. The National WWII Museum

    Pavilions of aircraft and landing craft, the Higgins boats that were made in this city; allow two hours and take the lift.

  3. Cochon Butcher

    Counter seats in a butcher's shop: a muffuletta or the pork belly cubano with a pickle and a beer.

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