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New Orleans for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Brass, bone, and a river that bends around the dead.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: A square, a hall and a courtyard

  1. Jackson Square

    Sit on a bench by the iron fence and watch the painters, the cathedral bells and the street musicians; the oldest corner of the city.

  2. Preservation Hall

    Fifty minutes on a wooden bench in an unamplified room, a trumpet and a clarinet and a very old tune; the early set leaves time for dinner.

  3. Bayona

    Dinner in a creole cottage on Dauphine Street with a candlelit courtyard, a block from the Bourbon Street noise; a calm table and a slow dinner.

Saturday: A spa, a long lunch and a garden stroll

  1. Spa at the Ritz-Carlton

    A treatment room in the former Maison Blanche department store, with a steam room and a quiet lounge; book a massage in advance.

  2. Commander's Palace lunch

    The turquoise-and-white landmark since 1893; the prix fixe lunch with turtle soup and bread pudding soufflé is a leisurely two hours.

  3. Garden District stroll

    Walk it slowly, past the Greek Revival mansions and iron galleries, and sit on a bench under a live oak.

Sunday: Brunch, a museum and a sculpture garden

  1. Brennan's

    The pink house on Royal Street where bananas Foster was invented; the Sunday brunch is a long, courtyard-side affair.

  2. New Orleans Museum of Art

    A grand Beaux-Arts museum in City Park, with a fine French and African collection; an easy afternoon.

  3. Besthoff Sculpture Garden

    Sculptures between the oaks and lagoons, with benches and water; free, and open until late afternoon.

Monday: Beignets and a deli

  1. Café du Monde

    Three hot beignets and a café au lait since 1862; sit under the awning with the paper and take your time.

  2. Woldenberg Park and the Moonwalk

    A bench on the river wall with the Mississippi sliding past; the steamboat calliope may play.

  3. Central Grocery and Deli

    The home of the muffuletta since 1906: a half sandwich of salami, ham and olive salad is enough for two.

Other ways to see New Orleans