New Orleans for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Brass, bone, and a river that bends around the dead.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: A square, a hall and a courtyard
- Jackson Square
Sit on a bench by the iron fence and watch the painters, the cathedral bells and the street musicians; the oldest corner of the city.
- Preservation Hall
Fifty minutes on a wooden bench in an unamplified room, a trumpet and a clarinet and a very old tune; the early set leaves time for dinner.
- Bayona
Dinner in a creole cottage on Dauphine Street with a candlelit courtyard, a block from the Bourbon Street noise; a calm table and a slow dinner.
Saturday: A spa, a long lunch and a garden stroll
- Spa at the Ritz-Carlton
A treatment room in the former Maison Blanche department store, with a steam room and a quiet lounge; book a massage in advance.
- Commander's Palace lunch
The turquoise-and-white landmark since 1893; the prix fixe lunch with turtle soup and bread pudding soufflé is a leisurely two hours.
- Garden District stroll
Walk it slowly, past the Greek Revival mansions and iron galleries, and sit on a bench under a live oak.
Sunday: Brunch, a museum and a sculpture garden
- Brennan's
The pink house on Royal Street where bananas Foster was invented; the Sunday brunch is a long, courtyard-side affair.
- New Orleans Museum of Art
A grand Beaux-Arts museum in City Park, with a fine French and African collection; an easy afternoon.
- Besthoff Sculpture Garden
Sculptures between the oaks and lagoons, with benches and water; free, and open until late afternoon.
Monday: Beignets and a deli
- Café du Monde
Three hot beignets and a café au lait since 1862; sit under the awning with the paper and take your time.
- Woldenberg Park and the Moonwalk
A bench on the river wall with the Mississippi sliding past; the steamboat calliope may play.
- Central Grocery and Deli
The home of the muffuletta since 1906: a half sandwich of salami, ham and olive salad is enough for two.