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New Orleans for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Brass, bone, and a river that bends around the dead.

The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.

Friday: Greenway to the bayou

  1. Lafitte Greenway by bike

    Rent a Blue Bike and ride the rail-to-trail through Tremé and Mid-City; the bayou makes a good place to stop.

  2. Early set at the Spotted Cat

    A tip jar, standing room and a swing band in a bar the size of a front room; the first set is the quietest.

  3. Coop's Place

    Rabbit and sausage jambalaya at the bar of a dive that has fed the Quarter for decades; the counter seats fill fast.

Saturday: A gallery at opening and the far bank

  1. Ogden Museum of Southern Art

    Be at the door at ten: the Southern art galleries and the Goldring Hall are quiet in the morning, with a good view of the Warehouse District.

  2. Algiers ferry and the Point

    Cross the river on foot, walk the levee past the Algiers Courthouse and the colourful cottages, and take the late ferry back.

  3. Cochon

    Cajun cooking in a Warehouse District brick room: a bar seat, a fried boudin starter and a bowl of gumbo. The staff are used to diners on their own.

Sunday: Paddle and second line

  1. Kayak on Bayou St. John

    An hour's paddle past the Pitot House and under the bridges, with herons for company; the water is calm and the light is soft.

  2. A Sunday second line

    September to June a social aid and pleasure club parades most Sundays with a brass band; follow the music, and dance at the back.

  3. Parkway Bakery and Tavern

    Order the roast beef po'boy dressed at the window and eat it on the bayou side picnic bench.

Monday: Dawn on the levee

  1. Moonwalk to Crescent Park at dawn

    Run or walk the river's edge as the first tankers pass, over the rusty rainbow of the Piety Street Bridge.

  2. St. Charles streetcar to the Fly

    Ride the 1923 cars end to end under the oaks, then walk through Audubon Park to the river.

  3. Guy's Po-Boys

    One man at the fryer, a grilled shrimp po'boy made to order; eat at the bar and listen to the radio.

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