New Orleans for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Brass, bone, and a river that bends around the dead.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Greenway to the bayou
- Lafitte Greenway by bike
Rent a Blue Bike and ride the rail-to-trail through Tremé and Mid-City; the bayou makes a good place to stop.
- Early set at the Spotted Cat
A tip jar, standing room and a swing band in a bar the size of a front room; the first set is the quietest.
- Coop's Place
Rabbit and sausage jambalaya at the bar of a dive that has fed the Quarter for decades; the counter seats fill fast.
Saturday: A gallery at opening and the far bank
- Ogden Museum of Southern Art
Be at the door at ten: the Southern art galleries and the Goldring Hall are quiet in the morning, with a good view of the Warehouse District.
- Algiers ferry and the Point
Cross the river on foot, walk the levee past the Algiers Courthouse and the colourful cottages, and take the late ferry back.
- Cochon
Cajun cooking in a Warehouse District brick room: a bar seat, a fried boudin starter and a bowl of gumbo. The staff are used to diners on their own.
Sunday: Paddle and second line
- Kayak on Bayou St. John
An hour's paddle past the Pitot House and under the bridges, with herons for company; the water is calm and the light is soft.
- A Sunday second line
September to June a social aid and pleasure club parades most Sundays with a brass band; follow the music, and dance at the back.
- Parkway Bakery and Tavern
Order the roast beef po'boy dressed at the window and eat it on the bayou side picnic bench.
Monday: Dawn on the levee
- Moonwalk to Crescent Park at dawn
Run or walk the river's edge as the first tankers pass, over the rusty rainbow of the Piety Street Bridge.
- St. Charles streetcar to the Fly
Ride the 1923 cars end to end under the oaks, then walk through Audubon Park to the river.
- Guy's Po-Boys
One man at the fryer, a grilled shrimp po'boy made to order; eat at the bar and listen to the radio.