Reykjavik for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Steam, basalt and a sky that never quite agrees.
A weekend the children will remember and the parents will survive. Short walks between real highlights, a boat or a tram instead of a museum queue, dinners at six, and room to run.
Friday: Pools and burgers
- Laugardalslaug
The city's biggest pool: outdoor lanes, a children's slide and shallow warm pots at 38 to 42 degrees; shower without swimwear first, which the lifeguards enforce.
- Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar
Dinner at six: cheeseburgers and chips at the harbour, quick service and plenty of tables, with the old harbour five minutes' walk away for running about.
- Sun Voyager
A short flat walk along the shore to the steel ship sculpture; children climb on the base while you take the photo, and the bay is lit up behind.
Saturday: Whales indoors and animals outdoors
- Whales of Iceland
Life-size models of 23 whale species in one hangar, with an audio guide; children walk under a blue whale and the café does hot chocolate.
- Reykjavik Family Park and Zoo
Icelandic farm animals, seals and a small fairground in one park, open all year; allow a couple of hours and bring warm clothes whatever the month.
- Hlemmur Mathöll
Dinner at six at the food hall: stalls for burgers, soup, fish and pizza mean everyone gets what they want, plus tables for a big party.
Sunday: A boat to the whales
- Elding Whale Watching
A three-hour boat trip with warm overalls provided; minke, humpback and dolphins are likely April to October and rare in winter, so check the season.
- Reykjavík Maritime Museum
Trawler rooms and a ship to tour, a gentler afternoon after the boat; there are hands-on rooms and a café, a ten-minute walk from the harbour.
- Messinn
Dinner at six: fish arrives in bubbling pans for the table to share, with potatoes and butter, and nobody minds the noise of children.
Monday: Ducks, books and soup
- Hljómskálagarður
The park beside the pond has a playground and duck-feeding spots, flat enough for pushchairs; wrap up, as the wind off the water can be raw.
- Reykjavik City Library, Grófin
A warm, free children's floor of picture books and play corners at the harbour, a good wet-weather stop and a place to sit before the airport.
- Café Babalú
A relaxed lunch of soup, sandwiches and cake in a room full of mismatched furniture, a short walk from the church and the bus to the airport.