Reykjavik for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Steam, basalt and a sky that never quite agrees.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Settlers and the stone church
- Hallgrímskirkja
Guðjón Samúelsson's church, begun in 1945 and finished in 1986, shaped like basalt columns; the tower gives the clearest map of the city, so check its closing hour.
- The Settlement Exhibition
A Viking longhouse hall excavated in 2001 sits under glass in the centre of the city, the oldest trace of settlement, with a timeline of the dig.
- Þrír Frakkar (Three Coats)
A small, old-fashioned dining room famous for plokkfiskur and the fish of the day; whale and puffin are on the menu, but the fish is the better order.
Saturday: Saga and nation
- National Museum of Iceland
The permanent exhibition runs from the ninth-century settlement to today in about two hours, with Viking swords, a bronze Thor and a turf-house door.
- Saga Museum
Life-size silicone scenes of the settlement, the Althing's adoption of Christianity and the plague years, with an audio guide; an hour, with the harbour cafés next door.
- Matur og Drykkur
Old farm-kitchen recipes reinterpreted: smoked lamb, salted cod and a burnt-skyr dessert, in the same building as the Saga Museum; book ahead for the short tasting menu.
Sunday: The first parliament
- Þingvellir National Park
Iceland's Althing met here from 930, on the rift between two plates; walk down Almannagjá to the Law Rock and bring layers, since the lake wind is strong.
- Strokkur at Geysir
The original 'geysir' is dormant, but Strokkur beside it erupts every five to ten minutes to about twenty metres, reliably, with the whole hillside steaming behind.
- Íslenski Barinn
Icelandic classics under one roof: lamb soup, fish stew and a long list of local beer, a plain and honest dinner after a day on the road.
Monday: Cold War and the sea
- Höfði House
Where Reagan and Gorbachev met in October 1986; the house itself is mostly closed inside, so the point is the shoreline path and the tale of the meeting.
- Reykjavík Maritime Museum
Cod Wars and trawler history, with a guided tour of the Coast Guard ship Óðinn that faced British frigates in the 1970s; tours run at set times.
- Kaffivagninn
The harbour's old café, serving fish soup and plokkfiskur to fishermen and flight crews since 1935; sit by the window and watch the boats before the Flybus.