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Reykjavik for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Steam, basalt and a sky that never quite agrees.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Settlers and the stone church

  1. Hallgrímskirkja

    Guðjón Samúelsson's church, begun in 1945 and finished in 1986, shaped like basalt columns; the tower gives the clearest map of the city, so check its closing hour.

  2. The Settlement Exhibition

    A Viking longhouse hall excavated in 2001 sits under glass in the centre of the city, the oldest trace of settlement, with a timeline of the dig.

  3. Þrír Frakkar (Three Coats)

    A small, old-fashioned dining room famous for plokkfiskur and the fish of the day; whale and puffin are on the menu, but the fish is the better order.

Saturday: Saga and nation

  1. National Museum of Iceland

    The permanent exhibition runs from the ninth-century settlement to today in about two hours, with Viking swords, a bronze Thor and a turf-house door.

  2. Saga Museum

    Life-size silicone scenes of the settlement, the Althing's adoption of Christianity and the plague years, with an audio guide; an hour, with the harbour cafés next door.

  3. Matur og Drykkur

    Old farm-kitchen recipes reinterpreted: smoked lamb, salted cod and a burnt-skyr dessert, in the same building as the Saga Museum; book ahead for the short tasting menu.

Sunday: The first parliament

  1. Þingvellir National Park

    Iceland's Althing met here from 930, on the rift between two plates; walk down Almannagjá to the Law Rock and bring layers, since the lake wind is strong.

  2. Strokkur at Geysir

    The original 'geysir' is dormant, but Strokkur beside it erupts every five to ten minutes to about twenty metres, reliably, with the whole hillside steaming behind.

  3. Íslenski Barinn

    Icelandic classics under one roof: lamb soup, fish stew and a long list of local beer, a plain and honest dinner after a day on the road.

Monday: Cold War and the sea

  1. Höfði House

    Where Reagan and Gorbachev met in October 1986; the house itself is mostly closed inside, so the point is the shoreline path and the tale of the meeting.

  2. Reykjavík Maritime Museum

    Cod Wars and trawler history, with a guided tour of the Coast Guard ship Óðinn that faced British frigates in the 1970s; tours run at set times.

  3. Kaffivagninn

    The harbour's old café, serving fish soup and plokkfiskur to fishermen and flight crews since 1935; sit by the window and watch the boats before the Flybus.

Other ways to see Reykjavik