Reykjavik for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Steam, basalt and a sky that never quite agrees.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Glass, a long dinner and the red house
- Harpa
Ólafur Elíasson's glass honeycomb on the harbour, free to enter and best seen once the facade lights up after dark; the foyer stays open and has benches.
- Íslenski Barinn
Icelandic classics and a long list of local beers and spirits, with the kitchen open late on weekends; sensible to line the stomach before the night begins.
- Kaffibarinn
The red-fronted house that Damon Albarn co-owns, a cafe by day and DJ bar by night; the door is easy, the queue is not, and drinks run about ten euros.
Saturday: Brunch, a gallery and a gig
- Grái Kötturinn
The Grey Cat is a basement café for a late breakfast of American-style pancakes and eggs, small and often full by noon, so go a little earlier.
- Hafnarhús
The harbour branch of the Reykjavik Art Museum, a former warehouse with contemporary shows and Erró's collage paintings; open until five, so a calm afternoon.
- Sushi Social
Sharing plates with an Icelandic angle: salmon and tuna sushi, tempura and cocktails; the kitchen is quick, which matters when a gig starts at ten.
- Gaukurinn
A loud, sticky live music room for punk, metal, drag and stand-up, open late; the programme changes nightly, so check it before you go.
Sunday: A soak and the concert hall
- Brauð & Co
A late, doughy breakfast of cinnamon snúður and strong coffee at the orange-fronted bakery, the first meal a Saturday night requires.
- Sundhöllin Reykjavíkur
Slide into the outdoor hot pots at the 1937 pool hall to undo last night's damage; it fills with locals on a Sunday afternoon, so a quiet corner is rare.
- Harpa Eldborg concert
The main hall hosts the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and touring acts most weekends; check the programme, the season runs September to June, and tickets start around thirty euros.
- Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur
The after-midnight hot dog at the harbour stand, which stays open into the small hours at weekends, with the works on top and a queue of fellow night people.
Monday: Slow breakfast before the bus
- Reykjavik Roasters
Strong filter coffee and something with cinnamon on it at the roasters' counter, for anyone still standing; the staff are used to a pale Monday crowd.
- Sun Voyager
Sea air on the shore path past the steel ship sculpture; nobody is around at noon on a Monday, and the bay clears the head better than coffee.
- Hlemmur Mathöll
Soup or ramen in the old bus station before the Flybus leaves, with plenty of seats and no queue on a Monday lunchtime.