Reykjavik for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Steam, basalt and a sky that never quite agrees.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Glass and a neighbourhood pool
- Harpa
Walk in free and watch the harbour light through the glass facets; the upper foyers have seats and nobody minds one person with a notebook.
- Vesturbæjarlaug
The west-end locals' pool, where the hot pots are the neighbourhood's living room and a visitor alone is just another soaker; open until late on weekdays.
- Hlemmur Mathöll
Stalls around shared tables in the old bus station, which makes dining alone easy; pick a bowl of lamb soup and sit near the bar.
Saturday: Crater and waterfall
- Kerið crater
A 3,000-year-old volcanic crater with a green lake at the bottom and a path round the rim; the small entry fee buys a peaceful walk before the buses.
- Gullfoss
A two-step waterfall dropping into a narrow canyon; walk the lower path for the spray and the upper one for the view, and wear waterproofs.
- Skál!
A seat at the counter for Nordic small plates, mostly vegetables and fish; the kitchen talks to solo diners and will steer you to the day's best.
Sunday: A gallery and a flea market
- Hafnarhús
The harbour branch of the Reykjavik Art Museum at opening, with the pop-art collages of Erró; the guards will have the galleries to themselves with you.
- Kolaportið flea market
Wander a hall of second-hand books, wool and dried fish, and sample the shark if you are bold; it only runs on weekends from eleven to five.
- Sægreifinn (Seabaron)
Lobster soup ladled from a pot and fish skewers at long communal tables; sitting alone is normal, and chat with the table is encouraged.
Monday: The last morning
- Hallgrímskirkja tower
Go up at opening for the empty viewing deck and the long shadows across the painted roofs; the lift is quick and the view needs no company.
- National Museum of Iceland
An unhurried two hours in the permanent exhibition, with the Viking-age room the best of it; the museum café is quiet for coffee before the airport.
- Svarta Kaffið
Soup served in a hollowed-out loaf, the lamb and the vegetarian one both generous, at a basement café with counter seats for one.