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Reykjavik for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Steam, basalt and a sky that never quite agrees.

The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.

Friday: Glass and a neighbourhood pool

  1. Harpa

    Walk in free and watch the harbour light through the glass facets; the upper foyers have seats and nobody minds one person with a notebook.

  2. Vesturbæjarlaug

    The west-end locals' pool, where the hot pots are the neighbourhood's living room and a visitor alone is just another soaker; open until late on weekdays.

  3. Hlemmur Mathöll

    Stalls around shared tables in the old bus station, which makes dining alone easy; pick a bowl of lamb soup and sit near the bar.

Saturday: Crater and waterfall

  1. Kerið crater

    A 3,000-year-old volcanic crater with a green lake at the bottom and a path round the rim; the small entry fee buys a peaceful walk before the buses.

  2. Gullfoss

    A two-step waterfall dropping into a narrow canyon; walk the lower path for the spray and the upper one for the view, and wear waterproofs.

  3. Skál!

    A seat at the counter for Nordic small plates, mostly vegetables and fish; the kitchen talks to solo diners and will steer you to the day's best.

Sunday: A gallery and a flea market

  1. Hafnarhús

    The harbour branch of the Reykjavik Art Museum at opening, with the pop-art collages of Erró; the guards will have the galleries to themselves with you.

  2. Kolaportið flea market

    Wander a hall of second-hand books, wool and dried fish, and sample the shark if you are bold; it only runs on weekends from eleven to five.

  3. Sægreifinn (Seabaron)

    Lobster soup ladled from a pot and fish skewers at long communal tables; sitting alone is normal, and chat with the table is encouraged.

Monday: The last morning

  1. Hallgrímskirkja tower

    Go up at opening for the empty viewing deck and the long shadows across the painted roofs; the lift is quick and the view needs no company.

  2. National Museum of Iceland

    An unhurried two hours in the permanent exhibition, with the Viking-age room the best of it; the museum café is quiet for coffee before the airport.

  3. Svarta Kaffið

    Soup served in a hollowed-out loaf, the lamb and the vegetarian one both generous, at a basement café with counter seats for one.

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