Barcelona for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Descend beneath the royal palace to the Roman streets, the garum factory and the dye vats of Barcino.

Espadrilles sewn on the bench since 1941, the jute soles still stitched by hand in the back of the shop.

A 1929 dining room with anarchist history and a bomb story, where the cap i pota comes to the table in a low light.

Rovira i Trias's 1888 market, go early for the Saturday producers and the cheese counters before the brunch crowd.

A cooperative of printers running hand-set type on restored presses; book a morning and leave with your own inked sheet.

Market cooking from the stalls next door, cap i pota and seasonal vegetables, at a table that is plainly a chef's own.

Gaudí's unfinished crypt of leaning basalt columns, designed from an upside-down model of chains and weights; the strange place nobody mentions.

The Sunday market of books, stamps, postcards and comics that has run around the iron market since 1936.

Since 1903, the rice dishes the fishing families ordered when the quay was still a quay, cooked in the same pans.

A silent square whose church wall still carries the shrapnel of the 1938 bombing, best at the hour the school is out.

Queen Isabel II's herbalist since 1823, with the original drawers and a fountain, used as a set for the film Perfume.

Marble tables since 1870 in the dairy that invented Cacaolat in 1931; take a mel i mató and the morning's last transmutation.