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Barcelona for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Trencadís, sea light, and streets that argue in Catalan.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Barcino to Mies

  1. MUHBA Plaça del Rei

    Under the royal palace, the streets of Barcino: a laundry, a garum works and a wine press, the city's first thousand years in an hour.

  2. Pavelló Mies van der Rohe

    The 1986 reconstruction of the 1929 pavilion: onyx wall, chrome cruciform columns, and Kolbe's figure in the shallow pool.

  3. El Nacional

    An 1889 industrial hall restored as four restaurants under one iron roof, with the interior by Lázaro Rosa-Violán.

Saturday: Gothic by the sea, Sert on the hill

  1. Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar

    Catalan Gothic built in fifty-four years by the porters who carried the stone from Montjuïc; the 1936 fire stripped it bare.

  2. Fundació Joan Miró

    Josep Lluís Sert's 1975 building, with the quarter-cylinder light scoops that make the galleries glow without a single visible lamp.

  3. Enigma

    Albert Adrià's restaurant inside RCR Arquitectes' cloud-grey interior, eaten as a sequence of rooms rather than courses.

Sunday: Gaudí, the waterfront, the plotters' tavern

  1. Casa Milà rooftop

    Go for the attic of catenary brick arches and the roof of helmeted chimneys, a structural argument rather than a façade.

  2. Vila Olímpica on foot

    Bohigas's MBM masterplan, Gehry's bronze fish, Miralles and Pinós's pergolas, and the two towers that reopened the city to the sea.

  3. Els Quatre Gats

    Puig i Cadafalch's 1897 tavern where the modernistes plotted and a teenage Picasso drew the menu; the plotters' bar, with suquet.

Monday: Glòries and the wave roof

  1. Mercat dels Encants and Torre Glòries

    Jean Nouvel's 2005 tower reflected in b720's mirrored canopy over the flea market, which opens on Mondays.

  2. Mercat de Santa Caterina

    Miralles and Tagliabue's roof of 325,000 ceramic hexagons over a medieval convent whose foundations show through the floor.

  3. Cuines Santa Caterina

    Lunch at the long counter inside the market, under the timber ribs that hold the wave up.

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