Barcelona for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Trencadís, sea light, and streets that argue in Catalan.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Barcino to Mies
- MUHBA Plaça del Rei
Under the royal palace, the streets of Barcino: a laundry, a garum works and a wine press, the city's first thousand years in an hour.
- Pavelló Mies van der Rohe
The 1986 reconstruction of the 1929 pavilion: onyx wall, chrome cruciform columns, and Kolbe's figure in the shallow pool.
- El Nacional
An 1889 industrial hall restored as four restaurants under one iron roof, with the interior by Lázaro Rosa-Violán.
Saturday: Gothic by the sea, Sert on the hill
- Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar
Catalan Gothic built in fifty-four years by the porters who carried the stone from Montjuïc; the 1936 fire stripped it bare.
- Fundació Joan Miró
Josep Lluís Sert's 1975 building, with the quarter-cylinder light scoops that make the galleries glow without a single visible lamp.
- Enigma
Albert Adrià's restaurant inside RCR Arquitectes' cloud-grey interior, eaten as a sequence of rooms rather than courses.
Sunday: Gaudí, the waterfront, the plotters' tavern
- Casa Milà rooftop
Go for the attic of catenary brick arches and the roof of helmeted chimneys, a structural argument rather than a façade.
- Vila Olímpica on foot
Bohigas's MBM masterplan, Gehry's bronze fish, Miralles and Pinós's pergolas, and the two towers that reopened the city to the sea.
- Els Quatre Gats
Puig i Cadafalch's 1897 tavern where the modernistes plotted and a teenage Picasso drew the menu; the plotters' bar, with suquet.
Monday: Glòries and the wave roof
- Mercat dels Encants and Torre Glòries
Jean Nouvel's 2005 tower reflected in b720's mirrored canopy over the flea market, which opens on Mondays.
- Mercat de Santa Caterina
Miralles and Tagliabue's roof of 325,000 ceramic hexagons over a medieval convent whose foundations show through the floor.
- Cuines Santa Caterina
Lunch at the long counter inside the market, under the timber ribs that hold the wave up.