Barcelona for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Trencadís, sea light, and streets that argue in Catalan.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Up the hill before dark
- Bunkers del Carmel
An anti-aircraft battery from 1937 with the whole city laid out below, climbed for sunset with a bottle of water.
- Gràcia squares on foot
Walk down through Rodoreda's square and the old village streets as the bars pull their chairs out.
- Bar Bodega Quimet
A counter seat and a plate of grilled vegetables and anchovies, no reservation, no fuss.
Saturday: The shore and the cable
- Ride the seafront
Rent a bike and take the flat cycle path along the whole beachfront to the Fòrum before the sand is claimed.
- Transbordador Aeri del Port
The 1931 cable car from the beach tower across the harbour to Montjuïc, a seven-minute crossing above the cranes.
- Cerveseria Vaso de Oro
A standing counter for a solomillo with foie and a cold caña among the regulars.
Sunday: Up the mountain
- Train to Montserrat
FGC and the rack railway to the monastery, then the walk up to Sant Jeroni among the stone fingers; back by late afternoon.
- The Escolania sings
The boys' choir sings the Salve at midday, one of the oldest music schools in Europe heard from the nave.
- Ciudad Condal
A solo seat at the long counter, open every day, order the patatas bravas and the grilled squid.
Monday: Last run
- Carretera de les Aigües
A flat dirt path along the ridge with the city below, run or walk it before the heat and the departure.
- Sant Pau Recinte Modernista
Domènech i Montaner's hospital of pavilions linked by tunnels, open on Mondays when the museums are not.
- El Quim de la Boqueria
Eggs with baby squid at the counter, eaten quickly with the market closing around you before the airport train.