Barcelona for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Trencadís, sea light, and streets that argue in Catalan.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: A glass facing the rose window
- Parc de la Ciutadella
The lawns, the lake and the absurd cascade; a bench under the plane trees for as long as it takes to arrive properly.
- La Vinya del Senyor
A glass of Priorat on the terrace facing Santa Maria del Mar's rose window, the week ending as the lamps come on.
- 7 Portes
Catalan rice dishes and classics in a grand 1836 dining room by the Born, white cloths and a bottle from the Penedès, with nothing to be anywhere for.
Saturday: The baths and the long lunch
- Granja Petitbo
A slow breakfast on the Passeig de Sant Joan, eggs and a second pot of coffee, the newspapers on the rack.
- Aire Ancient Baths
Two hours of hot, cold and salt pools in a 1900s warehouse by the park, candlelight and no clock; the day gone, happily.
- 7 Portes
Paella Parellada served under the arcades since 1836; lunch runs until six here and nobody minds, least of all the waiters.
Sunday: One convent and a pergola lunch
- Monestir de Pedralbes
The 1327 convent's three-storey cloister and its garden, free on Sunday afternoons, the quietest place in the city.
- Vivanda
Lunch under the garden pergola in Sarrià, small Catalan plates arriving slowly; stay for the coffee and the second coffee.
- Jardins del Palau de Pedralbes
A royal park of cedars and a Gaudí fountain nobody visits, a last bench before an early night.
Monday: Bread and the sea
- Forn Baluard
Croissants from the wood oven at the Barceloneta bakery, eaten on the bench outside with the fishmongers passing.
- Platja de Sant Sebastià
A walk on the hard sand to the swimming club and back, shoes in hand, the only exertion of the weekend.
- La Mar Salada
A last rice on the Barceloneta front, a glass of white and the Aerobus from Plaça de Catalunya after.