Barcelona for The Romantics: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Rubió's 1928 bridge has a skull and dagger on its underside; the whole Gothic quarter is a 1920s fiction of the Middle Ages, which is exactly its charm.

An hour of Tárrega and Albéniz under the great rose window, with the pigeons settling outside as the light goes.

Barcelona's oldest restaurant, open since 1786, signed photographs of half-forgotten actors on the walls and a stewed hare on the table.

Terraces of modernista mausoleums above the container port, with Miró, Companys and Cerdà among the residents and the sea beyond.

Domènech i Montaner's stained-glass skylight seen on the afternoon tour; the roses on the ceiling stay in your head for days.

Puig i Cadafalch's tavern where Casas and Rusiñol drank and a teenage Picasso drew the menu; order the suquet and stay late.

A neoclassical cypress maze with Eros at its centre and a romantic garden of canals and false ruins above it; free on Sundays.

The sculptor's Sentimental Museum: cabinets of fans, hairpins, pipes and daguerreotypes, beside a courtyard of orange trees.

The splurge: a belle-époque room open since 1967 where Dalí kept a table, a trolley of pressed duck and a cellar of old Priorat.

Gutted by fire in 1936 and left bare, so the Catalan gothic columns stand without ornament, which suits a last morning.

Streets of the 1714 siege excavated beneath an iron market hall, walked from a gangway with the Fossar de les Moreres flame next door.

A farewell coffee and ensaïmada under mirrors that have reflected the Liceu's audiences since 1929.