Marrakech for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The old spice square, with pyramids of saffron, ras el hanout and cones of cosmetics. Taste before you buy, and haggle in small steps.

A mint tea and a plate of Moroccan salads over the square, a good primer. The rooftop fills early at sunset.

Pick a numbered stall with a crowd. Order harira, grilled merguez and fried fish, and finish with sheep's-head if you are brave.

The main souk, best seen early when the stalls open and the shoppers are locals. Follow the dates, olives and preserved lemons to the side alleys.

A cooking class run by a non-profit that trains disadvantaged women. You cook a three-course Moroccan lunch and eat it together.

Single-origin coffee and Moroccan pastries in a palace courtyard. The pastry counter is the draw, and the queue is shorter at four.

Modern Moroccan food on a rooftop, with a good beetroot salad and a lamb tagine with quince. Book a table on the top floor.

The camel burger is the gimmick, but the almond-and-date milkshake is the real find. A relaxed late breakfast in the Kasbah.

Photographs of the Marrakech markets and tea merchants from a century ago. Finish on the roof with a pot of mint tea.

A slow-cooked tanjia, the Marrakchi bachelors' dish of lamb cooked in a clay pot in the hammam embers. A rooftop, a live band and a splurge.

A good French bakery for a last breakfast, with msemen on weekends and strong coffee. Buy a bag of almond pastries for the plane.

A tidy covered souk of designers and ceramic sellers. Buy olive oil, argan oil and tea glasses to take home.