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Marrakech for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Rose walls, spice smoke and a square that never sits still.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Almohad beginnings

  1. Koutoubia Mosque

    The twelfth-century minaret is the template for the Giralda in Seville. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but the ruins of the older mosque lie beside it.

  2. Ben Youssef Madrasa

    The Saadian-era Quranic school with cedar carving, zellige and rooms for nine hundred students. It closes at six, so go straight in.

  3. Le Foundouk

    A seventeenth-century merchants' warehouse turned restaurant, with tagines and a rooftop. Book the terrace at dusk for the minaret view.

Saturday: Saadians and sultans

  1. Saadian Tombs

    The tombs of the sixteenth-century dynasty, walled up and rediscovered in 1917. Arrive at opening, because the main chamber is tiny and queues are long.

  2. El Badi Palace

    The ruins of Ahmad al-Mansur's palace, stripped for its gold by Moulay Ismail. Storks nest on the walls and the old sunken gardens remain.

  3. Café Clock

    A friendly Kasbah café with a camel burger and a shaded roof. It is a good spot to read your notes after the palaces.

  4. Bahia Palace

    The grand vizier Ba Ahmed's late nineteenth-century palace, with painted cedar and a vast courtyard. It shows how the city's elite lived before the French.

Sunday: The Mellah

  1. Miara Jewish Cemetery

    Whitewashed tombs on bare earth, the largest Jewish cemetery in Morocco. Open every day except Saturday, and a small donation is expected.

  2. Lazama Synagogue

    A small courtyard synagogue still in use, tucked into the Mellah's lanes. Dress modestly and ask the caretaker for the story of the district.

  3. Maison de la Photographie

    Vintage photographs of Morocco from the 1870s to the 1950s, across three floors. The rooftop café has a good view over the medina.

  4. Café Arabe

    A riad restaurant with Italian-Moroccan dishes and a licensed rooftop bar. It is a civilised place to compare the day's notes over wine.

Monday: The modern layer

  1. Musée Yves Saint Laurent

    A compact museum of the designer's work and sketches, in a building of terracotta bricks. It opens at ten, so arrive a little before.

  2. Grand Café de la Poste

    A colonial brasserie of 1925 with palm-shaded tables and fish, steak and salads. A good place to end the weekend before the airport.

Other ways to see Marrakech