Marrakech for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Rose walls, spice smoke and a square that never sits still.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Almohad beginnings
- Koutoubia Mosque
The twelfth-century minaret is the template for the Giralda in Seville. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but the ruins of the older mosque lie beside it.
- Ben Youssef Madrasa
The Saadian-era Quranic school with cedar carving, zellige and rooms for nine hundred students. It closes at six, so go straight in.
- Le Foundouk
A seventeenth-century merchants' warehouse turned restaurant, with tagines and a rooftop. Book the terrace at dusk for the minaret view.
Saturday: Saadians and sultans
- Saadian Tombs
The tombs of the sixteenth-century dynasty, walled up and rediscovered in 1917. Arrive at opening, because the main chamber is tiny and queues are long.
- El Badi Palace
The ruins of Ahmad al-Mansur's palace, stripped for its gold by Moulay Ismail. Storks nest on the walls and the old sunken gardens remain.
- Café Clock
A friendly Kasbah café with a camel burger and a shaded roof. It is a good spot to read your notes after the palaces.
- Bahia Palace
The grand vizier Ba Ahmed's late nineteenth-century palace, with painted cedar and a vast courtyard. It shows how the city's elite lived before the French.
Sunday: The Mellah
- Miara Jewish Cemetery
Whitewashed tombs on bare earth, the largest Jewish cemetery in Morocco. Open every day except Saturday, and a small donation is expected.
- Lazama Synagogue
A small courtyard synagogue still in use, tucked into the Mellah's lanes. Dress modestly and ask the caretaker for the story of the district.
- Maison de la Photographie
Vintage photographs of Morocco from the 1870s to the 1950s, across three floors. The rooftop café has a good view over the medina.
- Café Arabe
A riad restaurant with Italian-Moroccan dishes and a licensed rooftop bar. It is a civilised place to compare the day's notes over wine.
Monday: The modern layer
- Musée Yves Saint Laurent
A compact museum of the designer's work and sketches, in a building of terracotta bricks. It opens at ten, so arrive a little before.
- Grand Café de la Poste
A colonial brasserie of 1925 with palm-shaded tables and fish, steak and salads. A good place to end the weekend before the airport.