Marrakech for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

After dark the square is a theatre of storytellers, Gnaoua musicians and smoke from a hundred grills. Walk it once, then step out of the crowd.

A dinner and show venue with belly dancers and live Moroccan music, a Marrakech institution. Come hungry, and book a table near the stage.

A rooftop bar over the Mellah and El Badi palace, with cocktails and a good view of the storks' nests. A licensed spot in the medina.

A hip Guéliz café-gallery with a long brunch menu and strong coffee. Nobody here minds a late start.

A quiet afternoon among sketches and couture. Its dark galleries are a gentle pace after Friday night.

Italian cooking in a candlelit riad, with fresh pasta and a short Moroccan wine list. A table here sets up the night.

The big club of the city, with resident DJs and a garden dance floor. Dress smart, and arrive after midnight if you want the room full.

A sleepy Sunday lunch on the riad's rooftop, with wine and pasta. Pace yourself.

A slow afternoon walk beside the old basin, with the Atlas peaks behind. Good for clearing a head.

A restaurant and lounge in a garden outside town, with live music and Moroccan cooking. Take a taxi and arrange the ride back.

The old-school bar in the palace hotel where Churchill painted. Order a classic cocktail, and dress properly.

An early French bakery, open when the clubs close, with croissants and coffee. A fine end to the night.

A calm early garden if you can stay awake. The cobalt blue and the cactus gardens are best before the crowds.