Porto for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Cross the top deck of the bridge for sunset with the drummers and the beer sellers, the city turning to lamps across the water.

Dinner at ten: a francesinha and a draft in the Aliados cervejaria that keeps serving past midnight, which matters tonight.

A fourth-floor arts space above a car park, concerts and DJs in the old Coliseu annex until three; the lift is slow, the stairs faster.

Noon brunch on Praça de Carlos Alberto, the only meal before dinner, so take the full plate and the second coffee.

The terraced garden over the river where the afternoon drinkers gather; stay for the sunset, it is the day's only sight.

Gigs in the 1885 iron market hall across from the Bolsa, then out into Rua Galeria de Paris, where the whole street is a bar until four.

A late breakfast of eggs and sourdough in a Cedofeita café, the kind of first meal a Saturday night requires.

An afternoon drink on the quay under the bridge, boats and buskers, the slow start to a Sunday night.

Dinner at nine with fado between the courses in a house that has sung since 1963; the second set is the better one.

Two floors of a 1900s building: a bar on top and a sweaty basement dance floor, the door loose, the crowd mixed, Sundays included.

The 1878 bakery opens at seven: a bola de Berlim and a coffee for whoever is still standing, the official breakfast of the walk home.

The gallery street wakes late too; Monday openings are rare, but the windows and the Bombarda shopping gallery are enough for a walk.

The last francesinha, cheese sealed, beer sauce poured at the table, a Super Bock and the airport metro from Bolhão.