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Porto for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Granite, tile, and the slow brown Douro.

The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.

Friday: Up and over

  1. Miradouro da Vitória

    The free viewpoint over the rooftops to the river, found through an unmarked gate; nobody minds a person alone with a bottle of water here.

  2. Walk the lower deck of Ponte Luís I

    Cross at street level with the traffic, then climb the Gaia stairs to the monastery terrace of Serra do Pilar for the view back.

  3. Bar at Casa Guedes Tradicional

    Stand-up pork sandwiches and a beer, no reservation, no fuss, and a counter where eating alone is the normal way.

Saturday: The river to the sea

  1. Run or ride the Douro to Foz

    Six flat kilometres along the quay and the Atlantic esplanade, with the fishermen at Cantareira and the lighthouse at the end.

  2. Mercado Municipal de Matosinhos

    Watch the auction floor, then buy sardines to be grilled at one of the street braziers on Rua Heróis de França outside.

  3. Tapabento

    A counter seat at the tapas bar under the station; order the tuna tataki and whatever the owner recommends.

Sunday: Out of town

  1. Train to Guimarães

    An hour north to the cradle of Portugal: castle, ducal palace, medieval square, back by mid-afternoon on the urban train.

  2. Rua das Flores busking circuit

    Sunday musicians along the pedestrian street; sit on the church steps of the Misericórdia and listen for as long as you like.

  3. O Gaveto

    A solo seat at the seafood bar: barnacles, clams and a glass of Alvarinho, with the regulars for company.

Monday: Last climb

  1. Torre dos Clérigos at opening

    Be first up the 225 steps for the empty top and the long morning shadows across the Baixa roofs.

  2. Jardim do Morro

    Take the cable car down the Gaia hillside past the lodges for a final sweep of the river, then walk the quay back.

  3. Mercado do Bolhão food counters

    Grab a plate of grilled sardines and bread at a counter inside the market before the airport metro across the road.

Other ways to see Porto