Porto for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Granite, tile, and the slow brown Douro.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Up and over
- Miradouro da Vitória
The free viewpoint over the rooftops to the river, found through an unmarked gate; nobody minds a person alone with a bottle of water here.
- Walk the lower deck of Ponte Luís I
Cross at street level with the traffic, then climb the Gaia stairs to the monastery terrace of Serra do Pilar for the view back.
- Bar at Casa Guedes Tradicional
Stand-up pork sandwiches and a beer, no reservation, no fuss, and a counter where eating alone is the normal way.
Saturday: The river to the sea
- Run or ride the Douro to Foz
Six flat kilometres along the quay and the Atlantic esplanade, with the fishermen at Cantareira and the lighthouse at the end.
- Mercado Municipal de Matosinhos
Watch the auction floor, then buy sardines to be grilled at one of the street braziers on Rua Heróis de França outside.
- Tapabento
A counter seat at the tapas bar under the station; order the tuna tataki and whatever the owner recommends.
Sunday: Out of town
- Train to Guimarães
An hour north to the cradle of Portugal: castle, ducal palace, medieval square, back by mid-afternoon on the urban train.
- Rua das Flores busking circuit
Sunday musicians along the pedestrian street; sit on the church steps of the Misericórdia and listen for as long as you like.
- O Gaveto
A solo seat at the seafood bar: barnacles, clams and a glass of Alvarinho, with the regulars for company.
Monday: Last climb
- Torre dos Clérigos at opening
Be first up the 225 steps for the empty top and the long morning shadows across the Baixa roofs.
- Jardim do Morro
Take the cable car down the Gaia hillside past the lodges for a final sweep of the river, then walk the quay back.
- Mercado do Bolhão food counters
Grab a plate of grilled sardines and bread at a counter inside the market before the airport metro across the road.