Porto for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Granite, tile, and the slow brown Douro.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: Settle in
- Passeio das Virtudes
A terraced garden over the river with a kiosk bar, the place to decide that nothing else is happening today.
- Prova
A wine bar that pours Portuguese wines by the glass with the stories attached; no tour, no queue, a seat at the counter.
- Cantinho do Avillez
Modern Portuguese in a long dim room, the abade de priscos pudding to finish, and an early walk back up the hill.
Saturday: The bath
- Confeitaria do Bolhão
The 1896 pastry shop for a late, long breakfast of pão de ló and coffee, with the newspaper and no agenda.
- Vinothérapie Spa at The Yeatman
A Caudalie grape-seed treatment and the indoor pool with the city in the window; non-residents book a treatment and stay the afternoon.
- Taberninha do Manel
Grilled fish on the Gaia quay with the lodges behind you and the lit city opposite; the walk back over the bridge is the day's exercise.
Sunday: One park and a long lunch
- Parque de Serralves
Spend the morning in eighteen hectares of park, the Siza museum only if it rains; the treetop walk ends at the farm and its donkeys.
- Casa de Chá da Boa Nova
Lunch that runs into the afternoon in Siza's 1963 tea house on the rocks, every window framing the Atlantic; book well ahead.
- Pérgola da Foz
Walk the 1930s pergola along the Foz seafront as the light goes, then an early night; that is the whole evening.
Monday: Slow coffee
- Café Majestic
The belle-époque breakfast, eggs and a pastel de nata under the mirrors; on a Monday morning the room is nearly yours.
- Livraria Lello
One sight for the day: the crimson staircase and the stained-glass ceiling, the ticket redeemable against a book for the flight.
- Mercearia das Flores
A last light lunch of cheese, tinned fish and bread at the deli counter on Rua das Flores before the metro from São Bento.