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Porto for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Granite, tile, and the slow brown Douro.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: Settle in

  1. Passeio das Virtudes

    A terraced garden over the river with a kiosk bar, the place to decide that nothing else is happening today.

  2. Prova

    A wine bar that pours Portuguese wines by the glass with the stories attached; no tour, no queue, a seat at the counter.

  3. Cantinho do Avillez

    Modern Portuguese in a long dim room, the abade de priscos pudding to finish, and an early walk back up the hill.

Saturday: The bath

  1. Confeitaria do Bolhão

    The 1896 pastry shop for a late, long breakfast of pão de ló and coffee, with the newspaper and no agenda.

  2. Vinothérapie Spa at The Yeatman

    A Caudalie grape-seed treatment and the indoor pool with the city in the window; non-residents book a treatment and stay the afternoon.

  3. Taberninha do Manel

    Grilled fish on the Gaia quay with the lodges behind you and the lit city opposite; the walk back over the bridge is the day's exercise.

Sunday: One park and a long lunch

  1. Parque de Serralves

    Spend the morning in eighteen hectares of park, the Siza museum only if it rains; the treetop walk ends at the farm and its donkeys.

  2. Casa de Chá da Boa Nova

    Lunch that runs into the afternoon in Siza's 1963 tea house on the rocks, every window framing the Atlantic; book well ahead.

  3. Pérgola da Foz

    Walk the 1930s pergola along the Foz seafront as the light goes, then an early night; that is the whole evening.

Monday: Slow coffee

  1. Café Majestic

    The belle-époque breakfast, eggs and a pastel de nata under the mirrors; on a Monday morning the room is nearly yours.

  2. Livraria Lello

    One sight for the day: the crimson staircase and the stained-glass ceiling, the ticket redeemable against a book for the flight.

  3. Mercearia das Flores

    A last light lunch of cheese, tinned fish and bread at the deli counter on Rua das Flores before the metro from São Bento.

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