Porto for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Granite, tile, and the slow brown Douro.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Arrival at a run
- Riverside run to Foz
Drop the bags and run the flat six kilometres along the quay to the Felgueiras lighthouse; tram 1 brings you back if the legs object.
- Ponte Luís I, top deck
Walk the upper deck at sunset, sixty metres over the river with the metro passing a metre away; the Gaia stairs down are the cool-down.
- Café Santiago
Recovery by francesinha: steak, sausage, ham and melted cheese under a beer sauce, which is tonight's dinner and tomorrow's fuel in one plate.
Saturday: Surf and the sea pools
- Surf lesson at Praia de Matosinhos
Two hours in a wetsuit on the city's own beach, where the beginner break is forgiving and the surf schools line the esplanade; metro to Matosinhos Sul.
- Piscina das Marés
Swim Siza's Atlantic tide pools, concrete walls holding back the surf; open June to September, cold enough to count as a second workout.
- Marisqueira Antiga
Seafood at a Matosinhos institution: clams, a crab to dismantle and a grilled sea bass, all of it earned on the water this morning.
Sunday: The gorge and the bridge
- Passadiços do Paiva
An hour's drive east: eight kilometres of timber boardwalk along the Paiva gorge, steep in places, with swimming spots at the river bends.
- Ponte 516 Arouca
A 516-metre footbridge on an open steel grille 175 metres over the river, walked one way with a ticket booked in advance; vertigo optional.
- Casa Guedes Tradicional
The sande de pernil with melted Serra cheese, two of them, and a beer at the counter after a day on the walkways.
Monday: Last climb
- Escadas dos Guindais
Up the Guindais stairs from the river to Batalha before breakfast, two hundred-odd steps; the funicular alongside is for the way down.
- Porto Bridge Climb
Harnessed up the arch of the Ponte da Arrábida, 65 metres over the Douro, on a morning session; sixty minutes, no bag, good shoes.
- Mercado do Bolhão
A plate of grilled sardines or a bifana at the counters inside the restored market, before the metro to the airport from across the road.