Tunis for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Whitewashed hills, a medina of domes, and Carthage under the pines.
Eating is the itinerary. Breakfast where the porters eat, a market tour, the dish the city is known for in the place that does it best, and one serious dinner.
Friday: Start at the stalls
- Marché Central de Tunis
A vaulted hall of fish, harissa, olives and dates, best in the last hours before closing when prices drop.
- Café de Paris
A central grand café for a strong coffee and a plate of mixed olives and pastries before dinner.
Saturday: The medina table
- Café Chaouachine
Breakfast of lablabi-style chickpea soup and a glass of hot tea in the chéchia sellers' souk.
- Souk el Attarine
Spice and perfume stalls where the harissa and tabil blends are weighed by the gram; buy a small bag to take home.
- Dar Belhadj
Lunch in a medina house: couscous with lamb and a salad of grilled peppers, served in a quiet courtyard.
- Dar El Jeld
The medina's best-known table; order the full Tunisian menu of brik, slata mechouia and a tagine.
Sunday: Pastries and the gulf
- Pâtisserie Masmoudi
A pastry shop for makroudh and baklawa; take a box to eat in the park, or a single warm one at the counter.
- Le Pirate
Fish lunch with views of the harbour in Sidi Bou Said; order the grilled sea bream and a plate of fried calamari.
- Café des Nattes
Mint tea with pine nuts, a Sidi Bou Said classic, on the mats under the awnings.
Monday: The last taste
- Pâtisserie Ben Yedder
Tunis's classic pâtisserie for a final box: almond pastries, ghraïba biscuits and a coffee at the counter.
- Marché Central de Tunis
Last stop for the market's dried fruit, harissa tubes and olive oil to pack in the bag.