Tunis for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Whitewashed hills, a medina of domes, and Carthage under the pines.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Settle in
- Avenue Habib Bourguiba
A walk down the boulevard to the old gate; cafés line the pavements and a seat for one is never awkward.
- Café de Paris
A grand café where eating alone is normal: order a coffee and a sandwich at the counter.
Saturday: Early start
- Zitouna Mosque
Arrive when the mosque courtyard opens; non-Muslims see the courtyard only.
- Dar Ben Abdallah Museum
A restored palace museum, quiet at opening, with a roof terrace over the medina.
- Café Chaouachine
Lunch at the counter in the chéchia souk, with a plate of brik and a hot tea.
- Dar El Jeld
A splurge table in the medina; solo diners are welcome at lunch more than at dinner, so book.
Sunday: Mosaics at opening
- Bardo National Museum
Be there at nine when the doors open, to see the mosaics without the tour groups.
- Marché Central de Tunis
A counter lunch at the central market, a fricassé roll and fruit from the stalls.
- Sidi Bou Said village
Walk the cliff-top village at the end of the afternoon, and finish with tea at a café.
Monday: Ruins before the flight
- Antonine Baths
The Roman baths by the sea, almost empty at nine.
- Café des Nattes
Mint tea and a doughnut at the famous café.