Tunis for The Romantics: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Ride the TGM suburban train out to La Marsa and walk the corniche as the light turns amber over the bay of Tunis.

Terrace dinner over the gulf in the village above the harbour; ask for a table on the edge and order the grilled fish.

Cobbled lanes of white walls and blue shutters; arrive before the coaches and walk the upper lanes away from the souvenir stalls.

Sit on the mats under the awning with mint tea and pine-nut tea, the café where Paul Klee and Simone de Beauvoir sat.

A Moorish palace built by a baron at the edge of the cliff, now a music centre; the garden and tiled rooms are best in late light.

The village's old palace dining room, candle-lit, with brik, lamb tagine and a view down to the marina; book for the terrace.

The perfume souk under its vaulted ceiling, jasmine and amber stalls, a good place to buy something small for her wrist.

A tiled courtyard café in the souks with mint tea and a bowl of makroudh; slip in during the afternoon lull.

A restored eighteenth-century palace with painted ceilings and mannequins in wedding dress; the roof terrace looks over the domes.

The medina's most graceful table, set in a restored town house; order the lamb with prunes and book the courtyard.

Roman baths on the shore with a column standing alone against the sea; arrive early and walk the arches before the heat.

A last tea on the terraced steps of Sidi Bou Said, with the gulf below and a plate of bambalouni doughnuts to share.