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Venice for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A city on wooden legs, sinking beautifully.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: The sunny side

  1. Zattere and Gelateria Nico

    The long quay facing the Giudecca, with the evening sun on it; a gianduiotto from Nico, eaten on the pontoon with your feet over the water.

  2. San Giorgio Maggiore at dusk

    One stop across the water, Palladio's white church with Tintoretto's Last Supper inside and the lift up the campanile for the sunset.

  3. Ristorante Riviera

    Tables on the Zattere with the lights of the Giudecca across the channel, a slow menu of lagoon fish and vegetables; no second sitting.

Saturday: The spa island

  1. GOCO Spa at JW Marriott Venice

    A private island twenty minutes from San Marco by the hotel boat, with the biggest spa in the lagoon, a rooftop pool, and olive trees; a day pass.

  2. Trattoria Altanella

    A terrace over a Giudecca canal since 1920, and a long lunch of fish and the house gnocchi, taken slowly; the afternoon has no plan.

  3. Giardini Reali

    The restored royal gardens behind the Procuratie, a pergola, a greenhouse café, and a bench with the lagoon over the wall.

Sunday: One museum and an island lunch

  1. Peggy Guggenheim Collection

    A palazzo on the Grand Canal with Pollock, Ernst and Marini's horseman on the terrace; an hour inside and a coffee in the sculpture garden.

  2. Locanda Cipriani

    Lunch in the garden of Hemingway's island inn, risotto and a bottle of Soave while the lagoon does nothing around you.

  3. Torcello cathedral

    The seventh-century basilica next door, the mosaic of the Last Judgement, and the bell tower; a quarter of an hour, then the slow boat back.

Monday: Coffee and Bellini

  1. Caffè Florian

    Breakfast in the 1720 rooms before the square fills, a cappuccino and a pastry under the painted panels; the music starts later.

  2. San Zaccaria

    Bellini's altarpiece of 1505 in the half-light, and a flooded crypt under the chapel; a church two minutes from the Riva, almost always quiet.

  3. Trattoria da Remigio

    A Castello trattoria that has not changed its menu or its waiters in decades, grilled fish and a last glass; the airport boat leaves from the Riva.

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