Venice for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
A city on wooden legs, sinking beautifully.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: The sunny side
- Zattere and Gelateria Nico
The long quay facing the Giudecca, with the evening sun on it; a gianduiotto from Nico, eaten on the pontoon with your feet over the water.
- San Giorgio Maggiore at dusk
One stop across the water, Palladio's white church with Tintoretto's Last Supper inside and the lift up the campanile for the sunset.
- Ristorante Riviera
Tables on the Zattere with the lights of the Giudecca across the channel, a slow menu of lagoon fish and vegetables; no second sitting.
Saturday: The spa island
- GOCO Spa at JW Marriott Venice
A private island twenty minutes from San Marco by the hotel boat, with the biggest spa in the lagoon, a rooftop pool, and olive trees; a day pass.
- Trattoria Altanella
A terrace over a Giudecca canal since 1920, and a long lunch of fish and the house gnocchi, taken slowly; the afternoon has no plan.
- Giardini Reali
The restored royal gardens behind the Procuratie, a pergola, a greenhouse café, and a bench with the lagoon over the wall.
Sunday: One museum and an island lunch
- Peggy Guggenheim Collection
A palazzo on the Grand Canal with Pollock, Ernst and Marini's horseman on the terrace; an hour inside and a coffee in the sculpture garden.
- Locanda Cipriani
Lunch in the garden of Hemingway's island inn, risotto and a bottle of Soave while the lagoon does nothing around you.
- Torcello cathedral
The seventh-century basilica next door, the mosaic of the Last Judgement, and the bell tower; a quarter of an hour, then the slow boat back.
Monday: Coffee and Bellini
- Caffè Florian
Breakfast in the 1720 rooms before the square fills, a cappuccino and a pastry under the painted panels; the music starts later.
- San Zaccaria
Bellini's altarpiece of 1505 in the half-light, and a flooded crypt under the chapel; a church two minutes from the Riva, almost always quiet.
- Trattoria da Remigio
A Castello trattoria that has not changed its menu or its waiters in decades, grilled fish and a last glass; the airport boat leaves from the Riva.