Venice for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
A city on wooden legs, sinking beautifully.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Scarpa
- Olivetti showroom
Carlo Scarpa's 1958 shop under the Procuratie, the marble stair floating in the room and the mosaic floor; run by FAI, half an hour.
- Fondazione Querini Stampalia
Scarpa's ground floor that lets the acqua alta in, his garden of concrete and water, and the family library upstairs open until late.
- Local
A minimalist dining room in Castello with lagoon ingredients and a precise Venetian kitchen; the tasting menu is the way to see it.
Saturday: The secret itineraries
- Doge's Palace, Secret Itineraries tour
The guided tour of the parts the public never saw: the Council of Ten's offices, the torture room, and Casanova's cell in the Leads.
- Punta della Dogana
Tadao Ando's concrete insertions into the seventeenth-century customs house, where the Grand Canal meets the Giudecca; the art changes, the building does not.
- Glam at Palazzo Venart
A garden palazzo on the Grand Canal with a starred kitchen; the splurge of the weekend, taken on the terrace if the weather allows.
Sunday: Arsenale and the merchants
- Arsenale
The medieval shipyard that invented the assembly line and launched a galley a day; the Corderie rope works is 316 metres long.
- Fondaco dei Tedeschi
OMA's conversion of the German merchants' house of 1508, with the courtyard, the red escalators, and the roof terrace by timed ticket.
- Venissa
A walled vineyard on a lagoon island, dinner in a restored farmhouse with the Dorona grape the Venetians thought they had lost.
Monday: Bridges
- Ponte della Costituzione
Calatrava's glass and steel bridge, the fourth across the Grand Canal and the most contested; the steps are the argument.
- Santa Maria dei Miracoli
Lombardo's marble jewel box of 1489, the Renaissance as a pure volume, with the coffered ceiling and the raised choir.
- Cantina Do Mori
Standing cicchetti at the oldest bacaro, since 1462, under the copper pots; Casanova drank here, and the plotters before him.