All cities · Venice

Venice for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A city on wooden legs, sinking beautifully.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Scarpa

  1. Olivetti showroom

    Carlo Scarpa's 1958 shop under the Procuratie, the marble stair floating in the room and the mosaic floor; run by FAI, half an hour.

  2. Fondazione Querini Stampalia

    Scarpa's ground floor that lets the acqua alta in, his garden of concrete and water, and the family library upstairs open until late.

  3. Local

    A minimalist dining room in Castello with lagoon ingredients and a precise Venetian kitchen; the tasting menu is the way to see it.

Saturday: The secret itineraries

  1. Doge's Palace, Secret Itineraries tour

    The guided tour of the parts the public never saw: the Council of Ten's offices, the torture room, and Casanova's cell in the Leads.

  2. Punta della Dogana

    Tadao Ando's concrete insertions into the seventeenth-century customs house, where the Grand Canal meets the Giudecca; the art changes, the building does not.

  3. Glam at Palazzo Venart

    A garden palazzo on the Grand Canal with a starred kitchen; the splurge of the weekend, taken on the terrace if the weather allows.

Sunday: Arsenale and the merchants

  1. Arsenale

    The medieval shipyard that invented the assembly line and launched a galley a day; the Corderie rope works is 316 metres long.

  2. Fondaco dei Tedeschi

    OMA's conversion of the German merchants' house of 1508, with the courtyard, the red escalators, and the roof terrace by timed ticket.

  3. Venissa

    A walled vineyard on a lagoon island, dinner in a restored farmhouse with the Dorona grape the Venetians thought they had lost.

Monday: Bridges

  1. Ponte della Costituzione

    Calatrava's glass and steel bridge, the fourth across the Grand Canal and the most contested; the steps are the argument.

  2. Santa Maria dei Miracoli

    Lombardo's marble jewel box of 1489, the Renaissance as a pure volume, with the coffered ceiling and the raised choir.

  3. Cantina Do Mori

    Standing cicchetti at the oldest bacaro, since 1462, under the copper pots; Casanova drank here, and the plotters before him.

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