Venice for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The widest street in Venice, the public gardens, and the pine-shaded island at the tip where locals walk dogs.

The city's cathedral until 1807, on a grassy island, with the leaning bell tower and a bench by the canal.

Beer and cicchetti on the street with the Castello regulars; stand, and someone will talk to you.

Twenty kilometres south along the Murazzi sea walls to the fishing village and the ferry to Chioggia; rent at the landing.

Venice's working twin, a miniature of canals and fishing boats with no tourists at all; the market hall is on the Canal Vena.

Fish on a wooden deck over the lagoon, then the last ferry and bike back along the dark sea wall.

The lagoon's vegetable garden, flat lanes between artichoke fields, a Napoleonic tower at the end.

The sandbank beach where Venetians anchor their boats on Sundays; bring your own shade and lunch.

Al Timon, Vino Vero, and Paradiso Perduto, one ombra and one cicchetto at each, standing on the quay.

The bridge empty, the market boats unloading, and the light down the canal before the shutters go up.

Stand-up rowing on a traditional batela through the back canals, taught by the women's rowing club; solo lessons are the better deal.

A bacaro open since 1462 near the Rialto market, copper pans hanging from the ceiling: stand with a glass of wine and a few cicchetti, then catch the boat to the airport.