Venice for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
A city on wooden legs, sinking beautifully.
A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.
Friday: The water bus and the tower
- Vaporetto 1 down the Grand Canal
Board at the start so the grandparents get the seats at the front, and ride all the way to San Marco; the city's only flat sightseeing.
- Campanile di San Marco
A lift to the top of the bell tower, the only climb in Venice everyone can make; the bells at the hour are loud and the children love it.
- Trattoria alla Madonna
A big, bright dining room by the Rialto with waiters who have seen every kind of family; a long table, fried fish and spaghetti with clams.
Saturday: The palace and a gondola
- Doge's Palace
The one great interior, with a lift to the state rooms and the Bridge of Sighs on the way out; the prisons are the children's favourite part.
- Al Giardinetto da Severino
Lunch under a vine in a courtyard garden five minutes from the square, with room for a pushchair and a menu that does not frighten anyone.
- Gondola from Bacino Orseolo
Six to a boat, the official rate shared, half an hour through the small canals behind the square; the gondolier helps everyone in and out.
Sunday: Burano
- Vaporetto 12 to Burano
Forty minutes across the lagoon to the island of painted houses, which is flat, bridge-light, and built for a slow walk with ice cream.
- Trattoria da Romano
The island's famous dining room, risotto di gò and fried fish at long tables under the paintings artists left in payment.
- Museo del Merletto
The lace museum on the square, with the old lacemakers at work on Sunday afternoons and a bench for whoever has had enough.
Monday: The basilica
- Basilica di San Marco
A timed ticket for the golden mosaics before the queue builds, with the Pala d'Oro behind the altar and the horses on the loggia for the children.
- Gran Caffè Lavena
Wagner's café on the square, a hot chocolate at the tables under the arcade while the grandparents rest and the pigeons perform.
- Rosticceria Gislon
A canteen counter since 1930 with mozzarella in carrozza and plates of pasta for everyone in five minutes; then the water bus to the airport.