Venice for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
A city on wooden legs, sinking beautifully.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: The long quay
- Run the Riva to Sant'Elena
Three kilometres of waterfront from the Doge's Palace to the pine island at the tip, with the lagoon on your right the whole way; back by the gardens.
- San Giorgio Maggiore campanile
The lift up Palladio's bell tower for the view the San Marco campanile cannot give you, which is of San Marco; last entry before sunset.
- Trattoria dai Tosi
Pizza and pasta at the neighbourhood trattoria behind the Biennale gardens, where the rowing clubs eat; the garden tables go first.
Saturday: Paddle and the dunes
- Venice Kayak
A guided half-day through the back canals at water level, under the bridges and out across the lagoon; a dry bag and sun cream are the kit.
- Alberoni dunes
Bus to the Lido's southern tip for the WWF dune reserve and the wide beach, a swim in the Adriatic and the old lighthouse at the mole.
- Trattoria Andri
Fish on a Lido back street with a garden, where the islanders eat; the fritto misto is the recovery meal and the boat back runs late.
Sunday: Row and climb
- Voga alla veneta with Row Venice
Stand-up rowing on a traditional batela through the northern canals, taught by the women's rowing club; ninety minutes and a sore back.
- Scala Contarini del Bovolo
Eighty steps up the spiral staircase hidden in a courtyard, for the roofs, the domes and the campanili in a ring around you.
- Osteria al Portego
Cicchetti at the counter and a few tables at the back for the bigoli in salsa; the kitchen is small and the portions are not.
Monday: Dawn over the bridges
- Ponte dell'Accademia at sunrise
A loop over the wooden bridge, along the Zattere and back by the Salute, before anyone but the bakers and the rubbish boats is up.
- T Fondaco dei Tedeschi rooftop
The free terrace above the Rialto bridge by timed ticket, the Grand Canal below and the Dolomites behind on a clear morning.
- Cantina Do Spade
Fried sardines and a glass of Raboso at a bacaro that has poured since 1488, two minutes from the market; then the boat to the airport.