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Venice for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A city on wooden legs, sinking beautifully.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: The long quay

  1. Run the Riva to Sant'Elena

    Three kilometres of waterfront from the Doge's Palace to the pine island at the tip, with the lagoon on your right the whole way; back by the gardens.

  2. San Giorgio Maggiore campanile

    The lift up Palladio's bell tower for the view the San Marco campanile cannot give you, which is of San Marco; last entry before sunset.

  3. Trattoria dai Tosi

    Pizza and pasta at the neighbourhood trattoria behind the Biennale gardens, where the rowing clubs eat; the garden tables go first.

Saturday: Paddle and the dunes

  1. Venice Kayak

    A guided half-day through the back canals at water level, under the bridges and out across the lagoon; a dry bag and sun cream are the kit.

  2. Alberoni dunes

    Bus to the Lido's southern tip for the WWF dune reserve and the wide beach, a swim in the Adriatic and the old lighthouse at the mole.

  3. Trattoria Andri

    Fish on a Lido back street with a garden, where the islanders eat; the fritto misto is the recovery meal and the boat back runs late.

Sunday: Row and climb

  1. Voga alla veneta with Row Venice

    Stand-up rowing on a traditional batela through the northern canals, taught by the women's rowing club; ninety minutes and a sore back.

  2. Scala Contarini del Bovolo

    Eighty steps up the spiral staircase hidden in a courtyard, for the roofs, the domes and the campanili in a ring around you.

  3. Osteria al Portego

    Cicchetti at the counter and a few tables at the back for the bigoli in salsa; the kitchen is small and the portions are not.

Monday: Dawn over the bridges

  1. Ponte dell'Accademia at sunrise

    A loop over the wooden bridge, along the Zattere and back by the Salute, before anyone but the bakers and the rubbish boats is up.

  2. T Fondaco dei Tedeschi rooftop

    The free terrace above the Rialto bridge by timed ticket, the Grand Canal below and the Dolomites behind on a clear morning.

  3. Cantina Do Spade

    Fried sardines and a glass of Raboso at a bacaro that has poured since 1488, two minutes from the market; then the boat to the airport.

Other ways to see Venice