Vienna for The Romantics: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Gilt, gloom, and coffee that takes all afternoon.
The weekend for two. Terraces at dusk, a table booked weeks ago, a walk home the long way. Nothing before ten, nothing rushed, one extravagance you will talk about for years.
Friday: Arrival among the Habsburgs
- Kapuzinergruft
The imperial crypt under the Capuchin church, Maria Theresia's double sarcophagus with its carved pewter mourners, a half-hour of Habsburg theatre before coffee.
- Café Sperl
Thonet chairs, billiard tables, newspapers on cane holders and a room that has not been redecorated since 1880; order a Melange and stay until it is dark.
- Gasthaus Pöschl
A wood-panelled Beisl behind Stephansdom with a short handwritten card, Tafelspitz with apple horseradish and a Zweigelt by the glass.
Saturday: The composers and the Kiss
- Zentralfriedhof, Group 32A
Tram 71 to Tor 2, then the honorary graves: Beethoven and Schubert side by side, Brahms opposite, Strauss in gilded relief, under lime trees as long as a boulevard.
- Upper Belvedere
Klimt's Kiss in the room built to hold a crowd, the Schiele portraits beside it, then the terraced garden down to the lower palace with the city as the backdrop.
- Zum Schwarzen Kameel
Jugendstil panelling and a marble counter since 1618; stand at the bar with Beinschinken sandwiches or take the back room for the Beuschel.
Sunday: The palace at dusk
- Beethoven Pasqualatihaus
Four floors up on the old city bastion, the rooms where he wrote the Fifth, the Seventh and Fidelio, looking out over what is now the Ring.
- Schönbrunn Gloriette at dusk
Skip the palace ticket and walk up through the free park to the Gloriette as the light goes amber on the yellow front and the Neptune fountain below.
- Café Dommayer
Where Johann Strauss the younger gave his first concert in 1844; dinner under the chandeliers, a Hietzing neighbourhood crowd, and a Kaiserschmarrn to close.
Monday: A garden, a kitchen, a last coffee
- Burggarten and the Palmenhaus
The emperor's private garden opened to everyone, the Mozart statue in its treble-clef bed and the glass palm house with a café inside for a slow coffee.
- Schubert's birthplace
The Himmelpfortgrund house where he was born in the kitchen room in 1797; his spectacles and the guitar he composed on when the family could not afford a piano.
- Café Prückel
A 1950s interior nobody has dared touch, Oskar Strnad lamps, a Gulasch or a Topfenstrudel, and a window on the tram bend of the Ring to say goodbye from.