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Vienna for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Gilt, gloom, and coffee that takes all afternoon.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Prater, fast and slow

  1. Windobona Indoor Skydiving

    Two one-minute flights in a vertical wind tunnel after a short briefing, no jump or plane needed; the Riesenrad is a short walk away.

  2. Wiener Riesenrad

    The 1897 ferris wheel after the flight, a slow turn in a wooden cabin to see where you have been and the Danube you will swim in.

  3. Schweizerhaus

    A pork knuckle carved at the table and a Budvar from the tap in the chestnut beer garden, open March to October; the first recovery meal.

Saturday: Canal, lake, Schnitzel

  1. Donaukanal

    A flat dawn run along the canal towpath from Schwedenplatz to the Prater bridges and back, graffiti walls and rowing eights for company.

  2. Segelschule Hofbauer, Alte Donau

    Hire a paddleboard or a dinghy on the old Danube arm, two hours on warm still water with the Donauturm above; a swim from the board counts.

  3. Figlmüller Wollzeile

    The Schnitzel that overhangs the plate, pounded thin since 1905, with potato salad and a Grüner; book, or stand in the queue with the rest.

Sunday: The Rax and the lake under the hill

  1. Rax cable car

    Ninety minutes by train and bus, then Austria's first cable car to the Rax plateau at 1,500 metres; a four-hour loop to the Ottohaus and back on the ridge.

  2. Seegrotte Hinterbrühl

    Europe's largest underground lake in a gypsum mine, crossed by boat in a helmet, on the way back through the Vienna Woods.

  3. Plachutta Wollzeile

    Tafelspitz in its copper pot, the broth first and the beef after with apple horseradish; the dish Franz Joseph ate daily, earned by a mountain.

Monday: Park run, flak tower, sausage

  1. Schlosspark Schönbrunn

    The park opens at half past six: a run up the zigzag to the Gloriette and back along the Neptune fountain before the coaches arrive.

  2. Haus des Meeres

    An aquarium in a wartime flak tower, sharks and a crocodile hall inside and a terrace on the roof eleven floors up; take the stairs.

  3. Bitzinger Würstelstand Albertina

    A Käsekrainer with sweet mustard and a Pfiff of beer at the stand behind the opera, eaten standing before the airport train.

Other ways to see Vienna