Vienna for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Gilt, gloom, and coffee that takes all afternoon.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Prater, fast and slow
- Windobona Indoor Skydiving
Two one-minute flights in a vertical wind tunnel after a short briefing, no jump or plane needed; the Riesenrad is a short walk away.
- Wiener Riesenrad
The 1897 ferris wheel after the flight, a slow turn in a wooden cabin to see where you have been and the Danube you will swim in.
- Schweizerhaus
A pork knuckle carved at the table and a Budvar from the tap in the chestnut beer garden, open March to October; the first recovery meal.
Saturday: Canal, lake, Schnitzel
- Donaukanal
A flat dawn run along the canal towpath from Schwedenplatz to the Prater bridges and back, graffiti walls and rowing eights for company.
- Segelschule Hofbauer, Alte Donau
Hire a paddleboard or a dinghy on the old Danube arm, two hours on warm still water with the Donauturm above; a swim from the board counts.
- Figlmüller Wollzeile
The Schnitzel that overhangs the plate, pounded thin since 1905, with potato salad and a Grüner; book, or stand in the queue with the rest.
Sunday: The Rax and the lake under the hill
- Rax cable car
Ninety minutes by train and bus, then Austria's first cable car to the Rax plateau at 1,500 metres; a four-hour loop to the Ottohaus and back on the ridge.
- Seegrotte Hinterbrühl
Europe's largest underground lake in a gypsum mine, crossed by boat in a helmet, on the way back through the Vienna Woods.
- Plachutta Wollzeile
Tafelspitz in its copper pot, the broth first and the beef after with apple horseradish; the dish Franz Joseph ate daily, earned by a mountain.
Monday: Park run, flak tower, sausage
- Schlosspark Schönbrunn
The park opens at half past six: a run up the zigzag to the Gloriette and back along the Neptune fountain before the coaches arrive.
- Haus des Meeres
An aquarium in a wartime flak tower, sharks and a crocodile hall inside and a terrace on the roof eleven floors up; take the stairs.
- Bitzinger Würstelstand Albertina
A Käsekrainer with sweet mustard and a Pfiff of beer at the stand behind the opera, eaten standing before the airport train.