Vienna for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Gilt, gloom, and coffee that takes all afternoon.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Up to Kahlenberg
- Kahlenberg
Ride to the top and stand where Sobieski's relief army came down on the Turks in 1683; the whole Danube plain and the city below.
- Walk down through the vineyards to Nussdorf
Forty minutes on foot through Riesling rows and along the brook where Beethoven walked out the Pastoral.
- Heuriger Kierlinger
A Nussdorf wine tavern since 1787: buffet by weight, their own Gemischter Satz in a quarter-litre mug, a bench shared with strangers.
Saturday: The Wachau by rail and bike
- Train to Melk, bike to Krems
An hour west, then thirty-five flat kilometres on the Danube cycle path past Spitz and the apricot orchards, with the Melk abbey at your back.
- Dürnstein ruin and the Rollfähre
Climb to the Kuenringer castle where Richard the Lionheart was held for ransom, then cross the river on the cable ferry at Spitz for the quiet bank.
- Gasthaus Kopp
Back in the Leopoldstadt, a plain Beisl with the biggest Schnitzel in the district and a counter where nobody asks why you are alone.
Sunday: The island and the floodplain
- Bike the Donauinsel
Twenty-one kilometres of flood-relief island with no cars, a WienMobil bike from the rack, the early swimmers at the Copa Beach and the Alte Donau boats.
- Lobau
Vienna's floodplain forest inside the city limits: swim at the Dechantlacke, find the Napoleon stone, listen for beavers in the backwaters.
- Strandgasthaus Birner
A lakeside inn at the top of the Alte Donau, fried fish and a Spritzer at a counter seat as the sailing boats come in.
Monday: The tower and the Prater
- Stephansdom south tower
343 steps up the Steffl at opening, the watchman's room at the top and an empty city of roofs below.
- Prater Hauptallee
Run or walk the 4.4 km chestnut avenue, Riesenrad at your back, to the Lusthaus pavilion and the Sunday-morning quiet of a Monday.
- Bitzinger Würstelstand
Käsekrainer with sweet mustard and a Pfiff at the sausage stand before the S7 to the airport.