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Vienna for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Gilt, gloom, and coffee that takes all afternoon.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: Roses, the thermal bath, a Beisl

  1. Volksgarten

    Three thousand rose bushes around the Theseus temple, each with a sponsor's plaque, and the Ring's quietest benches; stay until the lamps.

  2. Therme Wien

    The city's thermal baths at the end of the U1, warm outdoor pools under the sky and saunas in the garden; the evening ticket runs to ten.

  3. Gmoakeller

    A Beisl since 1858 by the Konzerthaus, Tafelspitz and a Blunzngröstl in a plain wooden room, the kitchen happy to serve late.

Saturday: Diglas, the Bruegels, the glasshouse

  1. Café Diglas

    Breakfast in a 1923 coffeehouse of red velvet booths, the Diglas Frühstück with ham and a soft egg; the newspaper comes on a cane holder.

  2. Kunsthistorisches Museum

    One room: the Bruegels, with a bench in front of the Hunters in the Snow; then the café under the cupola, which is the second room.

  3. Palmenhaus

    A late lunch under the palms of the 1901 glasshouse, a fish or a Schnitzel and a bottle of Wachau Riesling, the afternoon left entirely open.

Sunday: A swim, a Heuriger, a Japanese garden

  1. Amalienbad

    The 1926 municipal bath of Red Vienna, art deco tiles under a glass roof, a long swim and the sauna; a Sunday morning spent horizontal.

  2. Mayer am Pfarrplatz

    Sunday lunch in the wine tavern in the house where Beethoven wrote the Ninth, a buffet by weight and the house Gemischter Satz in the courtyard.

  3. Setagaya Park

    A Japanese garden from Vienna's sister district in Tokyo, a pond and a tea house, closed in winter; ten minutes' walk from the Heuriger, then nothing.

Monday: Demel, the Albertina, Café Mozart

  1. Demel

    The imperial confectioner since 1786, a Kaiserschmarrn or the house Sachertorte under the rococo ceiling, the waitresses still in black and white.

  2. Albertina

    Open on Monday: Dürer's hare in rotation, the Habsburg state rooms and Monet's water lilies in the permanent collection; one hour, one floor.

  3. Café Mozart

    Lunch opposite the opera in the café where Graham Greene wrote the Third Man, a goulash and a Melange, the airport train twenty minutes away.

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