Vienna for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Gilt, gloom, and coffee that takes all afternoon.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: Roses, the thermal bath, a Beisl
- Volksgarten
Three thousand rose bushes around the Theseus temple, each with a sponsor's plaque, and the Ring's quietest benches; stay until the lamps.
- Therme Wien
The city's thermal baths at the end of the U1, warm outdoor pools under the sky and saunas in the garden; the evening ticket runs to ten.
- Gmoakeller
A Beisl since 1858 by the Konzerthaus, Tafelspitz and a Blunzngröstl in a plain wooden room, the kitchen happy to serve late.
Saturday: Diglas, the Bruegels, the glasshouse
- Café Diglas
Breakfast in a 1923 coffeehouse of red velvet booths, the Diglas Frühstück with ham and a soft egg; the newspaper comes on a cane holder.
- Kunsthistorisches Museum
One room: the Bruegels, with a bench in front of the Hunters in the Snow; then the café under the cupola, which is the second room.
- Palmenhaus
A late lunch under the palms of the 1901 glasshouse, a fish or a Schnitzel and a bottle of Wachau Riesling, the afternoon left entirely open.
Sunday: A swim, a Heuriger, a Japanese garden
- Amalienbad
The 1926 municipal bath of Red Vienna, art deco tiles under a glass roof, a long swim and the sauna; a Sunday morning spent horizontal.
- Mayer am Pfarrplatz
Sunday lunch in the wine tavern in the house where Beethoven wrote the Ninth, a buffet by weight and the house Gemischter Satz in the courtyard.
- Setagaya Park
A Japanese garden from Vienna's sister district in Tokyo, a pond and a tea house, closed in winter; ten minutes' walk from the Heuriger, then nothing.
Monday: Demel, the Albertina, Café Mozart
- Demel
The imperial confectioner since 1786, a Kaiserschmarrn or the house Sachertorte under the rococo ceiling, the waitresses still in black and white.
- Albertina
Open on Monday: Dürer's hare in rotation, the Habsburg state rooms and Monet's water lilies in the permanent collection; one hour, one floor.
- Café Mozart
Lunch opposite the opera in the café where Graham Greene wrote the Third Man, a goulash and a Melange, the airport train twenty minutes away.