Vienna for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Gilt, gloom, and coffee that takes all afternoon.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Wagner, Loos, and the chess players
- Postsparkasse
Otto Wagner's 1906 savings bank: aluminium bolt heads on the marble skin, a glass-floored banking hall under a glass vault, and hot-air blowers that still look like the future.
- Looshaus
The 1911 house without eyebrows that so offended Franz Joseph he kept the Hofburg curtains drawn; walk on to Loos's tiny American Bar on Kärntner Durchgang, mirrors doubling a room four metres wide.
- Café Landtmann
The Ringstrasse coffeehouse of 1873 where Freud took his Melange; Tafelspitz in a room of dark wood, with a window table onto the Burgtheater.
Saturday: The cathedral, the crown, the bagpiper's inn
- Stephansdom
The gothic cathedral with its glazed-tile roof, the pulpit's stonemason peering from his window; the guided tour at opening covers what the free nave does not.
- Kaiserliche Schatzkammer
The treasury: the crown of the Holy Roman Empire, the Burgundian vestments and the unicorn horn, a thousand years in a dozen vaulted rooms.
- Griechenbeisl
The inn since 1447 where the plague-era bagpiper Augustin drank, with his song's walls of signatures and a Beuschel under low vaults.
Sunday: Red Vienna and the counterpoint
- Karl-Marx-Hof and the Hohe Warte villas
Karl Ehn's 1930 superblock, 1.1 km long with 1,382 flats and the Waschsalon laundry turned museum; then uphill to Josef Hoffmann's 1901 houses for Moser and Moll on Steinfeldgasse.
- Hundertwasserhaus and Kunst Haus Wien
The anti-modernist as counterpoint: uneven floors, trees as tenants and a façade that refuses the straight line, a stone's throw from Wagner's rationalism.
- Skopik & Lohn
A Beisl-brasserie in the Karmeliterviertel under Otto Zitko's scribbled black ceiling, calf's liver and a good Grüner by the glass.
Monday: Hollein and the opera
- Haas-Haus and Hollein's shopfronts
Hans Hollein's 1990 curved mirror glass facing the cathedral, then his jewel-box façades for Schullin and the Retti candle shop on Kohlmarkt, each a few metres wide.
- Wiener Staatsoper guided tour
Forty minutes behind the scenes of the 1869 opera house, the rebuilt auditorium and the surviving foyers; the stage set for tonight is being built as you pass.
- Glacis Beisl
Behind the stable walls in a courtyard garden, Schnitzel and potato salad at a table under the chestnuts before the airport train.