All cities · Vienna

Vienna for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Gilt, gloom, and coffee that takes all afternoon.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Wagner, Loos, and the chess players

  1. Postsparkasse

    Otto Wagner's 1906 savings bank: aluminium bolt heads on the marble skin, a glass-floored banking hall under a glass vault, and hot-air blowers that still look like the future.

  2. Looshaus

    The 1911 house without eyebrows that so offended Franz Joseph he kept the Hofburg curtains drawn; walk on to Loos's tiny American Bar on Kärntner Durchgang, mirrors doubling a room four metres wide.

  3. Café Landtmann

    The Ringstrasse coffeehouse of 1873 where Freud took his Melange; Tafelspitz in a room of dark wood, with a window table onto the Burgtheater.

Saturday: The cathedral, the crown, the bagpiper's inn

  1. Stephansdom

    The gothic cathedral with its glazed-tile roof, the pulpit's stonemason peering from his window; the guided tour at opening covers what the free nave does not.

  2. Kaiserliche Schatzkammer

    The treasury: the crown of the Holy Roman Empire, the Burgundian vestments and the unicorn horn, a thousand years in a dozen vaulted rooms.

  3. Griechenbeisl

    The inn since 1447 where the plague-era bagpiper Augustin drank, with his song's walls of signatures and a Beuschel under low vaults.

Sunday: Red Vienna and the counterpoint

  1. Karl-Marx-Hof and the Hohe Warte villas

    Karl Ehn's 1930 superblock, 1.1 km long with 1,382 flats and the Waschsalon laundry turned museum; then uphill to Josef Hoffmann's 1901 houses for Moser and Moll on Steinfeldgasse.

  2. Hundertwasserhaus and Kunst Haus Wien

    The anti-modernist as counterpoint: uneven floors, trees as tenants and a façade that refuses the straight line, a stone's throw from Wagner's rationalism.

  3. Skopik & Lohn

    A Beisl-brasserie in the Karmeliterviertel under Otto Zitko's scribbled black ceiling, calf's liver and a good Grüner by the glass.

Monday: Hollein and the opera

  1. Haas-Haus and Hollein's shopfronts

    Hans Hollein's 1990 curved mirror glass facing the cathedral, then his jewel-box façades for Schullin and the Retti candle shop on Kohlmarkt, each a few metres wide.

  2. Wiener Staatsoper guided tour

    Forty minutes behind the scenes of the 1869 opera house, the rebuilt auditorium and the surviving foyers; the stage set for tonight is being built as you pass.

  3. Glacis Beisl

    Behind the stable walls in a courtyard garden, Schnitzel and potato salad at a table under the chestnuts before the airport train.

Other ways to see Vienna