Zanzibar for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Wander the covered market as it winds down: spice mounds, cassava, tamarind and fish on ice, a short course in what Zanzibar eats.

Walk the seafront and watch the night market stalls set up; the sunset over the harbour is the best excuse to be early.

The famous nightly spread: grilled octopus, Zanzibar pizza, urojo soup and sugar-cane juice; point, eat, pay, repeat.

Taste fruit straight from the tree and learn the clove, vanilla and nutmeg trade; a lunch of rice and coconut curries follows.

A short coffee break at the old stand on Kenyatta Road, where locals gather over thick Swahili coffee and halwa.

The serious dinner: a multi-course Swahili menu in a restored merchant house, with the best seafood curry in the old town; book a rooftop table.

Return to the market's fish hall as the morning catch is sold; kingfish, tuna and octopus are weighed on hand scales.

Lunch on biryani, mishkaki and fish curry at the local favourite on Mkunazini, where the plates are large and the prices small.

Fresh-catch grill on the seafront; pick your fish by weight and have it with coconut rice.

Fresh juice, eggs and Swahili breakfast breads in a courtyard house; sit under the fan and plan the gift shopping.

One more coffee and a plate of fruit with local honey; the staff will happily explain the menu.

A farewell lunch of grilled fish and coconut-rice on the seafront before the airport.