Zanzibar for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Cloves, coral, and a town of carved doors.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: The long evening begins
- Forodhani Gardens
Sunset on the seafront with the gardens filling up and the jetty boys jumping; arrive hungry, the night market starts around six.
- Forodhani Gardens Night Food Market
Grilled octopus, skewers and Zanzibar pizza at the open-air stalls, the loudest and cheapest dinner in town.
- Africa House Hotel
Cocktails on the colonial terrace with the harbour lights twinkling; the bar stays open late and the crowd is mixed.
Saturday: A day that starts at noon
- Jaws Corner
Strong coffee and a snack at the old stand, to wake up the right way; the lanes are quiet at this hour.
- Freddie Mercury Museum
The childhood house of Farrokh Bulsara; the walls are crowded with posters and the soundtrack is, naturally, Queen.
- Livingstone Beach Restaurant
Beachfront dinner and drinks on the sand by the harbour; the music starts around ten and the crowd of travellers and locals goes on late.
Sunday: Sundowners and a late supper
- Lukmaan Restaurant
A late lunch of biryani and mishkaki at the local favourite; the plates are huge, so share.
- Sunset dhow cruise
A dhow cruise at sunset with music on board and the old town lit behind; take a layer for the wind.
- Mercury's Restaurant
Live music and cocktails at the seafront restaurant, which keeps going after the kitchen closes; get there before ten for a table.
Monday: Dawn and farewell
- Forodhani Gardens
Come back at dawn to watch the fishermen unload and the seafront wake up; a calm, free end to a late weekend.
- Zanzibar Coffee House
Breakfast in a quiet courtyard, with strong coffee and eggs; the best hangover cure in town.
- Old Fort
A final wander through the Old Fort's shaded courtyard and craft stalls, and pick up a last souvenir before the airport.