Zanzibar for The Romantics: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Walk the seafront as the light goes amber and the dhows come in; the gardens are free and the Indian Ocean breeze does the rest.

Climb to the terrace of the old colonial club for a sundowner over the harbour; the sun drops fast here, so be seated by six.

Eat on the rooftop above the old quarter with candles, a Swahili seafood curry and the evening call to prayer; the rooftop is small, so book ahead.

A wooden boat to a strip of white sand that vanishes at high tide; snorkel, swim and eat grilled fish under a shade cloth, just the two of you and the boatmen.

Back in town, the cool Persian baths built for a sultan's wife: domed rooms, pale light and a guide who explains the plumbing with real affection.

A seafront table with fresh fish, passion-fruit cocktails and a stage set of fishing boats; a pleasant, unhurried place to end a salty day.

Cloves, vanilla, cardamom and cinnamon smelled on the branch, then a lunch of coconut rice on banana leaves; go early, before the heat and the minibuses arrive.

A wooden dhow under a lateen sail while the sun goes down behind the old town; take a shawl for the wind on the way back.

Zanzibar pizza, sugar-cane juice and grilled octopus skewers standing at the gardens' stalls; the one splurge tonight is the lobster skewer.

A slow breakfast of fruit, eggs and strong coffee in a pretty courtyard-style café before the heat arrives; sit by the window.

The Old Fort's amphitheatre courtyard and its craft stalls, free to enter, shady and quiet before the cruise-ship crowds on weekdays.

Last lunch on the terrace with the harbour at your feet; allow time, since airport transfers take about twenty minutes.