Zanzibar for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A fast loop of the seafront promenade as the sun drops, to learn the layout and watch the local kids jump off the jetty into the harbour.

The market wraps up around dusk; push through for fish, chilli and spice stalls, then buy a bag of local peppercorns for the road.

Octopus skewers, Zanzibar pizza and chapati rolls hot off the grill; a cheap, loud refuel before an early start.

Dawn boat to Changuu: snorkel the coral off the island's beach, then walk the giant tortoises' enclosure before the tour boats land.

Push on to the sandbank for a second swim and a snorkel over the shallow reef; the seafood grill included is a proper recovery meal.

Fish market grill, a plate of grilled barracuda or tuna steak and a Kilimanjaro lager to rinse off the salt.

Red colobus monkeys leaping through the canopy, then a boardwalk through the mangrove swamp; it is a taxi ride out, so leave early.

The spice farm's tree-climbers shin up a coconut palm barefoot for a tip and a drink; wear walking shoes, the paths are muddy.

Big plates of biryani, mishkaki and chapati at the local favourite, where the plates are huge and the prices are small.

An early run along the seafront from Forodhani to Mizingani, the cool hour before the humidity builds; the road is flat and traffic-light.

The Old Fort's ramparts and craft shops with a cold juice in hand; short stairs but nothing steep.

Strong Swahili coffee and a snack at the old coffee stand on Kenyatta Road; the counter is a fine place to plan the airport run.