Athens for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The pastourma house since 1922, cured beef hanging in the window and the smell of fenugreek in the street; buy a hundred grams for the hotel.

A deli-taverna under hanging pastourma and low lamps, cured meats of the Cappadocian Greeks, a plate of cheese and a tsipouro; the first course of the weekend.

Sotiris Kontizas's Greek-Japanese kitchen in a narrow room, soba with pastourma and a beef tataki; the counter stools see everything.

The 1886 iron halls at full volume: butchers shouting prices, fish on ice, the spice sellers of Evripidou spilling out the back; eat a tripe soup at nine.

The guided market and street-food walks start from this square: loukoumades, koulouri, the olive stalls and the cheese shops of Aiolou, four hours and lunch.

A Michelin-starred room in a vaulted stone house in a residential backstreet, French technique over Greek produce; the serious dinner, taken slowly.

Bougatsa from Thessaloniki, the custard pie cut with two knives at the counter and dusted with cinnamon; the Sunday queue is the locals.

Lamb chops by the kilo on a pedestrian street under the Acropolis, paper on the tables and fries by the plate; the chops are the only decision.

A wine bar by the cathedral pouring only Greek grapes, assyrtiko to xinomavro by the glass, with a plate of cheese; ask for the one they are excited about.

Jars of dittany, mountain tea and mastic sold by weight from a shop that has not changed its fittings since the 1950s; buy the mountain tea.

Loukoumades since 1923, fried to order and drowned in honey and cinnamon, at marble tables under the old mirrors; one portion each.

Souvlaki in a tomato-sauced pita since 1950, from a hatch that closes when the meat runs out; the last bite before the airport metro.