Athens for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Marble, exhaust, and a city still arguing with itself.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Tschumi's glass floor
- Acropolis Museum
Bernard Tschumi's 2009 concrete tripartite floats on a hundred columns above the excavated Makrygianni quarter, its top gallery rotated to face the Parthenon it awaits.
- Pikionis's paths
Dimitris Pikionis laid these walks in 1954 to 1958 from marble fragments of demolished houses, a lesson in paving as composition.
- Dionysos Zonar's
Dinner on Rovertou Galli, south of the Acropolis, with Greek classics and the rock lit above the table; the right first night for a weekend of antiquity.
Saturday: The rock and Piano's hill
- Acropolis guided tour
A licensed guide for two hours on the rock, from the Mycenaean wall to Elgin and the restorers' cranes; book the first slot before the heat.
- Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center
Renzo Piano's artificial hill with the opera house and National Library beneath a ferrocement canopy the size of a football pitch, and a canal to the sea.
- Hytra at Onassis Stegi
A starred tasting menu on the roof of Architecture Studio's marble-louvred cultural centre, with the city lit up through the slats.
Sunday: Byzantium to the brewery
- Byzantine and Christian Museum
The thousand years the ancient sites skip, in the Duchess of Plaisance's villa: icons, mosaic floors and a reconstructed church, with a garden café.
- EMST in the Fix brewery
Takis Zenetos's 1957 industrial block, half demolished and reborn as the National Museum of Contemporary Art; the ribbon windows survived.
- Cookoovaya
Five chefs behind a long open kitchen in a stripped-back room behind the Hilton, wood-oven cooking and a serious cellar.
Monday: Bridges and the polykatoikia
- Calatrava's Katehaki footbridge
A 94-metre steel arch over the avenue built for the 2004 games, a warm-up for the Olympic stadium roof two stops north.
- The Blue Building
Kyriakos Panagiotakos's 1933 polykatoikia, painted ultramarine on Le Corbusier's advice; the type that would fill the city for fifty years.
- Seychelles
A bistro with tiled floors and plate-glass in a once-industrial quarter, lamb tongue and greens before the airport metro.