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Athens for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Marble, exhaust, and a city still arguing with itself.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Tschumi's glass floor

  1. Acropolis Museum

    Bernard Tschumi's 2009 concrete tripartite floats on a hundred columns above the excavated Makrygianni quarter, its top gallery rotated to face the Parthenon it awaits.

  2. Pikionis's paths

    Dimitris Pikionis laid these walks in 1954 to 1958 from marble fragments of demolished houses, a lesson in paving as composition.

  3. Dionysos Zonar's

    Dinner on Rovertou Galli, south of the Acropolis, with Greek classics and the rock lit above the table; the right first night for a weekend of antiquity.

Saturday: The rock and Piano's hill

  1. Acropolis guided tour

    A licensed guide for two hours on the rock, from the Mycenaean wall to Elgin and the restorers' cranes; book the first slot before the heat.

  2. Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center

    Renzo Piano's artificial hill with the opera house and National Library beneath a ferrocement canopy the size of a football pitch, and a canal to the sea.

  3. Hytra at Onassis Stegi

    A starred tasting menu on the roof of Architecture Studio's marble-louvred cultural centre, with the city lit up through the slats.

Sunday: Byzantium to the brewery

  1. Byzantine and Christian Museum

    The thousand years the ancient sites skip, in the Duchess of Plaisance's villa: icons, mosaic floors and a reconstructed church, with a garden café.

  2. EMST in the Fix brewery

    Takis Zenetos's 1957 industrial block, half demolished and reborn as the National Museum of Contemporary Art; the ribbon windows survived.

  3. Cookoovaya

    Five chefs behind a long open kitchen in a stripped-back room behind the Hilton, wood-oven cooking and a serious cellar.

Monday: Bridges and the polykatoikia

  1. Calatrava's Katehaki footbridge

    A 94-metre steel arch over the avenue built for the 2004 games, a warm-up for the Olympic stadium roof two stops north.

  2. The Blue Building

    Kyriakos Panagiotakos's 1933 polykatoikia, painted ultramarine on Le Corbusier's advice; the type that would fill the city for fifty years.

  3. Seychelles

    A bistro with tiled floors and plate-glass in a once-industrial quarter, lamb tongue and greens before the airport metro.

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