Athens for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Marble, exhaust, and a city still arguing with itself.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: The marble track
- Panathenaic Stadium
The ticket lets you onto the track of the 1896 Olympic stadium; run a lap of the marble horseshoe and climb to the top row for the view.
- Lycabettus by the path
The zigzag pine path to the chapel on the summit, twenty minutes at a push, for the sunset over the whole basin and the sea.
- Kalamaki Kolonaki
Skewers by the dozen at a corner souvlaki bar at the foot of the hill, with the Kolonaki crowd standing outside; the recovery meal, cheap and fast.
Saturday: Parnitha and the coves
- Mount Parnitha, Bafi refuge trail
The cable car up the city's highest mountain, then the fir-forest trail to the Bafi refuge and the ridge; deer on the path and snow until April.
- Limanakia
Rocky coves below the coast road past Vouliagmeni, where Athenians jump from the ledges and swim out to the buoys; bus from Glyfada.
- To Mavro Provato
The black sheep: a Pangrati meze house with pork knuckle, grilled mushrooms and tsipouro by the carafe; the plates keep coming until you stop.
Sunday: Sounion
- Temple of Poseidon, Sounion
The KTEL bus down the coast to the cape, and Poseidon's temple on the cliff with Byron's name cut into a column; two hours each way.
- Swim below the temple
Down the path from the temple to the cove for a swim with the columns above you; the water is deep ten metres out and the cold is brief.
- Seychelles
A neighbourhood restaurant in Keramikos with Greek plates and a wine list that rewards asking, the dinner a day of effort has earned, and a short walk home.
Monday: The rock at opening
- Dawn run up Philopappos
Up the Pikionis paths to the Philopappos monument and across to the Pnyx before the gates open, with the Parthenon lit pink across the hollow.
- Acropolis at opening
The first ticket of the day, up the marble steps to the Parthenon with the sun behind Hymettus and the coach parties still at breakfast.
- Hoocut
A souvlaki counter on the square run by cooks who used to run restaurants, lamb in a pita eaten standing; the airport metro is at Monastiraki.