Athens for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Marble, exhaust, and a city still arguing with itself.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: Kolonaki
- Plateia Dexamenis
A square of plane trees over Hadrian's reservoir, with the old café in the middle and nothing to do but watch Kolonaki walk its dogs.
- GB Roof Garden
A cocktail on the hotel roof with the Acropolis across the rooftops and Parliament below; one drink buys the sunset and the chair.
- Philos Athens
A neoclassical house turned café-bistro, a garden at the back, lamb and a bottle of Naoussa; dinner early and the walk home short.
Saturday: The hammam
- Hammam Baths
A marble hammam in a Thiseio townhouse, steam, a scrub on the hot stone, and tea in the courtyard afterwards; book the morning slot.
- Kuzina
A long lunch on the pedestrian street facing the Temple of Hephaestus, slow Greek cooking and a roof terrace for the coffee; the afternoon takes care of itself.
- Apostolou Pavlou at dusk
The pedestrian avenue round the foot of the Acropolis, benches under the pines and the buskers tuning up; a stroll, not a walk.
Sunday: The thermal lake
- Lake Vouliagmeni
A warm brackish lake under a cliff half an hour down the coast, loungers on the shore and the water the same temperature all year; a slow float.
- Ithaki
Lunch on a terrace above the bay at Vouliagmeni, grilled fish and a Santorini white, the kind of afternoon that ends when the light does.
- Kavouri pine beach
A pine-shaded cove on the next headland for a last swim and the sunset over the Saronic Gulf; the bus back to town runs until late.
Monday: Cycladic marble
- Zappeion gardens
A morning walk under the palms round the Zappeion hall, past the sundial and the duck pond, with benches every fifty metres.
- Museum of Cycladic Art
The marble figurines of the islands, four thousand years old, in a quiet museum open on Monday; an hour, then the courtyard café.
- Yiasemi
A café on the Plaka steps with cushions on the stairs, a slow brunch plate and a coffee before the metro; nobody will hurry you.