Athens for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Marble, exhaust, and a city still arguing with itself.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: The roof and the cellar
- A for Athens rooftop
A rooftop bar above Monastiraki square with the Acropolis filling the view and the lights coming on; one drink, and the city below is the plan.
- Telis
Pork chops and chips, nothing else, on paper plates in a bright room since 1978; it feeds the market and the late crowd until one.
- Six d.o.g.s
A bar, a garden and a gig room in the lanes behind Monastiraki; live bands most nights, DJs after, and the garden at three in the morning.
Saturday: Gazi
- Ergon House
Brunch in the food-hall atrium under the hotel, eggs with pastourma and a coffee, taken late by everyone who was out on Friday.
- Gazarte
Concerts in the old gasworks quarter, a roof terrace facing the lit Acropolis, and a bar between sets; the programme covers jazz to Greek rock.
- Romantso
A club in a 1960s magazine printworks near Omonia, with local DJs and a ground-floor bar; the door is easy and the sound is good.
Sunday: Cinema and the Clumsies
- Oikeio
Sunday lunch in a dim, narrow Kolonaki room of home cooking, rabbit stifado and a Santorini white, taken slowly; the afternoon is for sleep.
- Cine Paris
An open-air cinema on a Plaka roof since 1920, the Acropolis above the screen and a beer at the seat; May to October, two shows a night.
- The Clumsies
The bar that put Athens on the cocktail map, in a neoclassical house with a room upstairs for members; order from the list and trust it.
Monday: Pies at dawn
- Ariston
Kourou pies from a shop that has fed Syntagma since 1910, open at dawn for the office workers and the last of the night.
- National Garden
Shaded paths, a duck pond and benches under the palms for a slow morning; the garden opens at dawn and nobody checks what time you went to bed.
- O Thanasis
Kebab in pita at the long tables by the square, no reservation, the taxi drivers' choice since 1964; the airport metro is across the square.