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Athens for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Marble, exhaust, and a city still arguing with itself.

The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.

Friday: The roof and the cellar

  1. A for Athens rooftop

    A rooftop bar above Monastiraki square with the Acropolis filling the view and the lights coming on; one drink, and the city below is the plan.

  2. Telis

    Pork chops and chips, nothing else, on paper plates in a bright room since 1978; it feeds the market and the late crowd until one.

  3. Six d.o.g.s

    A bar, a garden and a gig room in the lanes behind Monastiraki; live bands most nights, DJs after, and the garden at three in the morning.

Saturday: Gazi

  1. Ergon House

    Brunch in the food-hall atrium under the hotel, eggs with pastourma and a coffee, taken late by everyone who was out on Friday.

  2. Gazarte

    Concerts in the old gasworks quarter, a roof terrace facing the lit Acropolis, and a bar between sets; the programme covers jazz to Greek rock.

  3. Romantso

    A club in a 1960s magazine printworks near Omonia, with local DJs and a ground-floor bar; the door is easy and the sound is good.

Sunday: Cinema and the Clumsies

  1. Oikeio

    Sunday lunch in a dim, narrow Kolonaki room of home cooking, rabbit stifado and a Santorini white, taken slowly; the afternoon is for sleep.

  2. Cine Paris

    An open-air cinema on a Plaka roof since 1920, the Acropolis above the screen and a beer at the seat; May to October, two shows a night.

  3. The Clumsies

    The bar that put Athens on the cocktail map, in a neoclassical house with a room upstairs for members; order from the list and trust it.

Monday: Pies at dawn

  1. Ariston

    Kourou pies from a shop that has fed Syntagma since 1910, open at dawn for the office workers and the last of the night.

  2. National Garden

    Shaded paths, a duck pond and benches under the palms for a slow morning; the garden opens at dawn and nobody checks what time you went to bed.

  3. O Thanasis

    Kebab in pita at the long tables by the square, no reservation, the taxi drivers' choice since 1964; the airport metro is across the square.

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