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Athens for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Marble, exhaust, and a city still arguing with itself.

A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.

Friday: The funicular

  1. Lycabettus funicular

    The funicular from Kolonaki to the summit chapel, three minutes up, with a terrace, benches and the whole city below for every age.

  2. Zappeion gardens

    Flat gravel paths under the palms, a duck pond and a small zoo of goats, and a bench for whoever needs one; the gates close at dusk.

  3. Taverna Filippou

    A Kolonaki taverna since 1923 with a long menu of stews and a long table on the pavement; the grandparents will recognise everything on it.

Saturday: The museum with the lifts

  1. Acropolis Museum

    The marbles from the rock in a museum built with lifts, ramps and glass floors over the excavations; the top gallery faces the Parthenon.

  2. Dionysos Zonar's

    Lunch on a terrace directly facing the Acropolis, white tablecloths and a Greek menu with nothing too strange; a long table is easy to book.

  3. Dionysiou Areopagitou

    The flat pedestrian boulevard round the south of the rock, benches under the trees and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus through the railings.

Sunday: The guards and the library

  1. Changing of the guard

    The full Sunday ceremony at eleven, the evzones in kilts and pompom shoes with a band; stand at the rail early, and the children at the front.

  2. Tzitzikas kai Mermigkas

    A meze house by the cathedral with long tables, shelves of old tins and dishes to share; everyone orders and nobody argues.

  3. Hadrian's Library

    The emperor's library of 132 AD, a flat site off Monastiraki square with the columns of the façade standing and shade along the wall.

Monday: The stadium and the church

  1. Panathenaic Stadium

    The marble stadium of the first modern Olympics, with the seats as benches and a flat track to walk; the audio guide is included.

  2. Kapnikarea

    An eleventh-century church sunk below the modern shopping street, saved from demolition by King Ludwig; frescoes in the dark and a bench outside.

  3. Athinaikon

    A meze restaurant since 1932 with marble tables and a menu of small plates for the whole table; the airport metro is two minutes away.

Other ways to see Athens