Athens for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Marble, exhaust, and a city still arguing with itself.
A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.
Friday: The funicular
- Lycabettus funicular
The funicular from Kolonaki to the summit chapel, three minutes up, with a terrace, benches and the whole city below for every age.
- Zappeion gardens
Flat gravel paths under the palms, a duck pond and a small zoo of goats, and a bench for whoever needs one; the gates close at dusk.
- Taverna Filippou
A Kolonaki taverna since 1923 with a long menu of stews and a long table on the pavement; the grandparents will recognise everything on it.
Saturday: The museum with the lifts
- Acropolis Museum
The marbles from the rock in a museum built with lifts, ramps and glass floors over the excavations; the top gallery faces the Parthenon.
- Dionysos Zonar's
Lunch on a terrace directly facing the Acropolis, white tablecloths and a Greek menu with nothing too strange; a long table is easy to book.
- Dionysiou Areopagitou
The flat pedestrian boulevard round the south of the rock, benches under the trees and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus through the railings.
Sunday: The guards and the library
- Changing of the guard
The full Sunday ceremony at eleven, the evzones in kilts and pompom shoes with a band; stand at the rail early, and the children at the front.
- Tzitzikas kai Mermigkas
A meze house by the cathedral with long tables, shelves of old tins and dishes to share; everyone orders and nobody argues.
- Hadrian's Library
The emperor's library of 132 AD, a flat site off Monastiraki square with the columns of the façade standing and shade along the wall.
Monday: The stadium and the church
- Panathenaic Stadium
The marble stadium of the first modern Olympics, with the seats as benches and a flat track to walk; the audio guide is included.
- Kapnikarea
An eleventh-century church sunk below the modern shopping street, saved from demolition by King Ludwig; frescoes in the dark and a bench outside.
- Athinaikon
A meze restaurant since 1932 with marble tables and a menu of small plates for the whole table; the airport metro is two minutes away.