Buenos Aires for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

An 1897 iron-and-glass hall of greengrocers and butchers. Eat a medialuna at the central counter and look at the old cheese stalls.

A long-running wine bar with a vast list by the glass. Ask for a flight of Malbec from three altitudes and a plate of cheeses.

Tucumán and San Juan empanadas, baked in a clay oven and eaten off a paper tablecloth. Order six, with a carafe of red.

Antiques, street food and a sixty-year-old stall of provolone. Walk it on Sunday morning with a choripán in hand.

The riverside carts grill chorizo on charcoal, and the bread is split and smeared with chimichurri. A standing lunch with a river view.

The brick corner parrilla. Order the bife de chorizo, morcilla and mollejas, and a Malbec. Book weeks ahead or queue with a glass of sparkling wine.

A 1912 tea room of mahogany, marble and a glass roof. Breakfast on medialunas and a cortado under the chandeliers.

A museum in a 1920s mansion, with the clothes and the story of Eva Perón. The tea room in the garden serves dulce de leche cakes.

A 1934 pizzeria with football photos on the walls. Order the fugazzeta, a slice of faina and a glass of moscato.

An old-style café with tango posters and a small bakery counter. Start the day with medialunas and a cortado.

A covered market of fishmongers and butchers, and a good cheap lunch at the lunch counters. Walk through before it closes.

A famous steakhouse where waiters cut the bife with a spoon. Order the ojo de bife and a salad, and a glass of Malbec.