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Buenos Aires for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Faded marble, bandoneón, and smoke off the grill.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Wheels on the river

  1. Bosques de Palermo by Ecobici

    Take a free Ecobici and loop the Rosedal, the lakes and the planetarium on the flat park paths. The lanes are good and the traffic is far away.

  2. Planetario Galileo Galilei

    The 1966 planetarium and its meteorite outside. Evening shows are in Spanish but the sky does the talking; book the earlier slot.

  3. Pizzería Güerrín

    Stand at the counter with a slice of fugazzeta, the onion-and-cheese pizza, and a glass of moscato. Fast, cheap and a long walk home later.

Saturday: Delta and rollercoasters

  1. Kayak through the Tigre delta

    Take the train to Tigre and rent a kayak on the tea-coloured channels. Start early, before the motor launches, and wear a cap.

  2. Lunch at Puerto de Frutos

    The old fruit port market, with parrilla stalls beside the wicker and mate gourds. Eat a choripán and a plate of grilled provoleta after the paddle.

  3. Parque de la Costa

    An old-school amusement park with Argentina's biggest rollercoaster and a quiet delta view. Buy the all-rides ticket and go straight to the big ones.

Sunday: Run, then the Bombonera

  1. Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

    Dirt paths between the lagoons and the river, flat and empty at dawn. The best morning run in the city, with swans at the far end.

  2. Museo de la Pasión Boquense

    Boca Juniors' museum and stadium tour, from the trophy room to the pitch edge of La Bombonera. Wear blue if you want a smile at the gate.

  3. Don Julio

    The brick corner parrilla with bottles on every wall: bife de chorizo, morcilla and a Malbec. Book weeks ahead or queue with a free glass of sparkling.

Monday: A last pedal

  1. Puente de la Mujer and the dock

    Run or cycle the Puerto Madero docks to Calatrava's white footbridge. Flat, wide and traffic-free before nine.

  2. MALBA

    Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar and a triple-height atrium in a limestone box. A cool hour of Latin American modernism before the airport run.

  3. La Cabrera

    A big steak with a dozen small side dishes, the Palermo way. The lunch plates are cheaper and just as large.

Other ways to see Buenos Aires