Buenos Aires for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Start with a vermouth on the plaza, where the bars open their terraces at dusk. Sit outside and watch the evening start.

Stand at the counter for a fugazzeta slice and a glass of moscato. A late dinner is normal here, and the counter is open until late.

A cocktail bar behind a flower shop, down a staircase into a basement. Order the Argentine-gin cocktail and a plate of empanadas.

A late start among antiques, street musicians and old bars. Eat a choripán and wander at the pace of a Saturday.

A dinner-and-tango show in a 1930s theatre. The show begins late, with dancers, orchestra and a full dinner.

The long-running club where Saturday nights run until dawn. Queue before one, and expect cumbia, electronic and a room that fills.

A 1919 theatre turned bookshop. Take a coffee on the old stage and read under the painted ceiling.

Small, loud and candle-dim, with pork belly, rabbit and a long Malbec list. Book a table for nine and stay late.

A cavernous old warehouse where Sunday milongas run until early morning. Take a lesson at the start and dance badly with everyone.

Medialunas and a cortado among the early risers and the last chess players. The first coffee of Monday, and the last of the weekend.

Cross the quiet square as the offices wake up, with the Casa Rosada pink in the morning light.

A last coffee under the stained glass. Order a submarino and sit at the back, where the tango posters hang.