Buenos Aires for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Faded marble, bandoneón, and smoke off the grill.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: A river and a counter
- Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
Walk the river-side path to the Río de la Plata, brown and wide as a sea. Go in the last hours of light.
- Caminito and La Boca
Go late, after the tour buses, when the painted houses belong to the neighbourhood again. Look in at the Usina del Arte.
- La Cabrera
Sit at the bar for a small steak and a glass of wine. Easier for one than a table, and the staff talk.
Saturday: Early start, bikes and wine
- Bosques de Palermo by Ecobici
Take a free Ecobici and loop the Rosedal, the lakes and the planetarium. Quiet on a Saturday morning, and flat all the way.
- MALBA
Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar and a triple-height atrium. Go at opening, and take the lift to the top.
- Pizzería Güerrín
Stand at the counter for a fugazzeta slice and a glass of moscato. A good solo dinner with no booking.
Sunday: Up the delta
- Tren de la Costa to Tigre
Take the scenic train along the river to Tigre. Sit by the window and get off for a walk at the stations.
- Puerto de Frutos
The old fruit port market of wicker and mate gourds. Eat a plate of parrilla at a counter.
- El Pobre Luis
A Uruguayan parrilla where the bar faces the grill. Order the pamplona and a glass of Malbec, and sit at the counter.
Monday: A last long walk
- Avenida 9 de Julio and the Obelisco
Walk the widest avenue in the world at dawn, when the jacarandas are the only crowd. Finish at the Obelisco.
- Teatro Colón
The 1908 opera house, seven floors of marble and gilt. Join the first English-language tour.
- Choripaneria al paso
A stand-up choripán, chorizo in a crusty roll with chimichurri, off Defensa in San Telmo. Eat it on the pavement, then take the Subte C line to the airport bus.