Copenhagen for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Two glass market halls: the fishmongers, Unika cheese, a coffee from Coffee Collective and the porridge counter; stock the hotel fridge here.

A wine bar in a canal-side townhouse where the pours are chosen for you from small growers, with a plate of cheese; the chairs are Wegner.

Smørrebrød taken seriously at dinner, the pork belly and the fried herring on dark rye, and snaps from the shelf; a Bib Gourmand with low prices.

The cardamom bun the city queues for, best eaten warm outside the shop; be in line before opening at eight on a Saturday.

Claus Meyer's cooking school: a four-hour class in Nordic sourdough or the season's vegetables, eaten together at the end with wine.

A Gothic cellar vaulted in the 1400s with a tasting menu of classical cooking, whole turbot and sauces, and the deepest cellar in town.

The brewery's 1847 site reopened as a museum, with the Elephant Gate, the Jacobsen stables and two beers at the end of the tour.

A low cellar of smørrebrød and snaps, the kitchen staff from the big restaurants eating at the next table; the dyrlægens natmad is the one.

The roastery and café in a former printing works, where the beans are cupped on Sundays; take a bag of the Kenyan for home.

Croissants laminated like a Paris bakery and coffee roasted on site, at the Nørrebro window where the cyclists stop on their way in.

The 1870 patisserie with its layer cakes under glass and a lined-up waiting staff; a slice of sportskage and a hot chocolate at a marble table.

Three pieces of smørrebrød at the stall, then the metro from Nørreport straight to the airport.