Copenhagen for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Copper roofs, bicycles, and the long northern dusk.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: The harbour edge and the old vintner
- Royal Danish Playhouse
Lundgaard & Tranberg's copper-and-brick stage on the quay, with Henning Larsen's Opera answering across the water.
- Hviids Vinstue
The city's oldest wine bar, open since 1723 in a cellar off the square, where Andersen drank and the Royal Theatre's actors still plot; a glass of gløgg in winter.
- Barr
Beer-hall cooking in the eighteenth-century warehouse that was Noma's first home, timber and lime-washed brick intact.
Saturday: Absalon's castle, with a guide
- Christiansborg Palace guided tour
The daily English tour of the royal reception rooms and the Queen's tapestries, then down to Absalon's twelfth-century castle foundations under the parliament.
- Nationalmuseet
The Sun Chariot, the Egtved girl in her Bronze Age coffin and the Viking hoards in the old prince's palace; free, and the prehistory wing is the one.
- Restaurant Puk
A 1750 cellar of beams and candles below the old water-pump square, pickled herring and a dark stout.
Sunday: Brick and concrete
- Ørestad by metro
BIG's 8 House and Mountain Dwellings, the VM Houses, and the Tietgen dormitory cylinder, a decade of housing experiments on one line.
- Grundtvigs Kirke
Jensen-Klint's expressionist cathedral of six million yellow bricks, laid by hand and lit like an organ pipe.
- Kødbyens Fiskebar
Seafood in the white-tiled functionalist slaughterhouse district, the 1930s meatpacking halls still working by day.
Monday: Jacobsen and the astronomer
- Radisson Collection Royal Hotel
Jacobsen's 1960 tower, the first skyscraper in the city, with Room 606 kept exactly as he furnished it.
- Rundetaarn
Christian IV's 1642 observatory, climbed by a spiral ramp with no steps, the oldest working observatory in Europe at the top.
- Aamanns 1921
Smørrebrød re-engineered on a pale Nordic counter, the rye bread baked in-house; the fried plaice with remoulade is the classic done straight.