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Copenhagen for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Copper roofs, bicycles, and the long northern dusk.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: The harbour edge and the old vintner

  1. Royal Danish Playhouse

    Lundgaard & Tranberg's copper-and-brick stage on the quay, with Henning Larsen's Opera answering across the water.

  2. Hviids Vinstue

    The city's oldest wine bar, open since 1723 in a cellar off the square, where Andersen drank and the Royal Theatre's actors still plot; a glass of gløgg in winter.

  3. Barr

    Beer-hall cooking in the eighteenth-century warehouse that was Noma's first home, timber and lime-washed brick intact.

Saturday: Absalon's castle, with a guide

  1. Christiansborg Palace guided tour

    The daily English tour of the royal reception rooms and the Queen's tapestries, then down to Absalon's twelfth-century castle foundations under the parliament.

  2. Nationalmuseet

    The Sun Chariot, the Egtved girl in her Bronze Age coffin and the Viking hoards in the old prince's palace; free, and the prehistory wing is the one.

  3. Restaurant Puk

    A 1750 cellar of beams and candles below the old water-pump square, pickled herring and a dark stout.

Sunday: Brick and concrete

  1. Ørestad by metro

    BIG's 8 House and Mountain Dwellings, the VM Houses, and the Tietgen dormitory cylinder, a decade of housing experiments on one line.

  2. Grundtvigs Kirke

    Jensen-Klint's expressionist cathedral of six million yellow bricks, laid by hand and lit like an organ pipe.

  3. Kødbyens Fiskebar

    Seafood in the white-tiled functionalist slaughterhouse district, the 1930s meatpacking halls still working by day.

Monday: Jacobsen and the astronomer

  1. Radisson Collection Royal Hotel

    Jacobsen's 1960 tower, the first skyscraper in the city, with Room 606 kept exactly as he furnished it.

  2. Rundetaarn

    Christian IV's 1642 observatory, climbed by a spiral ramp with no steps, the oldest working observatory in Europe at the top.

  3. Aamanns 1921

    Smørrebrød re-engineered on a pale Nordic counter, the rye bread baked in-house; the fried plaice with remoulade is the classic done straight.

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