Copenhagen for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Copper roofs, bicycles, and the long northern dusk.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Pizza, Vega, Jolene
- Mother
Sourdough pizza in a meatpacking hall with long tables and a crowd that is going out afterwards; order the one with the nduja.
- Vega
The 1956 trade union hall turned concert venue, with its original teak and brass; the main room is where the touring acts play.
- Jolene Bar
A bar in a former meat hall with DJs on the floor, no door policy and no sign, open until the small hours with the smokers outside.
Saturday: Rubies and the Box
- Mad & Kaffe
Brunch by the tick box: pick seven small plates of eggs, chorizo and pastries at a Vesterbro corner that has seen your kind before.
- Ruby
A cocktail bar in a canal-side townhouse's salons, no sign on the door, and a list that leads on gin and Danish aquavit.
- Culture Box
The city's techno institution, two rooms and a good sound system, open until seven on a Saturday; the queue is shortest before one.
Sunday: Brunch, dusk, a jam
- Granola
A 1930s-style café on the French street, eggs Benedict and a Bloody Mary under the old enamel signs; expect a wait on Sundays.
- Nyhavn
The painted houses and the old ships at dusk, when the lamps come on along the quay; walk it once, then leave it to the crowds.
- La Fontaine
The city's oldest jazz club, a small dim room with a Sunday jam session that runs late; a beer at the bar and a chair by the piano.
Monday: Breakfast at opening
- Atelier September
Opens at seven thirty for avocado on rye with chilli and a filter coffee, in a room of ceramics and good light; the first eggs are the best.
- Kongens Have
The king's garden by Rosenborg, flat paths and benches, the rose garden and the hedges; the quiet before the lunchtime crowds.
- DØP, Den Økologiske Pølsemand
An organic hot dog from the stand by the Round Tower, with remoulade and crisp onions, eaten standing before the metro from Nørreport.